Monte Nero is an attractive pyramidal peak - quite rocky - lying inside the Canavese side of Gran Paradiso Group, Subgroup Roccia Viva-Apostoli, a wild and protected milieu situated fully inside the Italian territory, between Aosta Valley in Northern Side and Piemonte (Canavese) in Southern Side. Main Aostan Valleys are Cogne Valley, Valsavarenche and Rhemes Valley, while main Canavese Valley are Orco Valley – with is complex orography and sub-valleys - and Soana Valley.
Overlooking “Gino Carpano Bivouac” with its 400 mt. high East Face, Monte Nero is really a lonely and special peak!!! As a matter of fact, notwithstanding it shows high-quality gneiss as a general rule, maybe in reason of its long approach, Monte Nero is not a crowded peak and just due to this fact mountaineering and climbers can spend here a secluded experience.
East Face shows a starting steep wall – mightful in the neighbourhood of Hasta Siempre Route – and a powerful summit building, culminating in Monte Nero bicuspidate summit; even if broken in its central part by a short section having some sloping slabs, this cliff is truly a very challenging and satisfactory place to climb.
First ascent: A. Sibille - M. Baretti - T.G. Tarro – A. Sacchi 10-8-1886 along North Ridge and West Side (only A. Sibille climbed the summit)
On the top: a trigonometric signal placed by CAI (Italian Alpine Club) Sez. Rivarolo Canavese.
From Turin reach Courgnè and Pont Canavese mt. 461; from here follow Orco Valley as far as Rosone mt. 715 (Km. 16,5 from Pont Canavese). A bit after Rosone leave the main road and follow on the right-hand side the road rising along Piantonetto Valley and reaching Teleccio artificial Lake mt.1917. Parking.
From Teleccio Lake (Ham, artificial lake) follow the road running along the right shore of the lake, then a steep path rising to Pontese Hut (40 minutes from the parking). From here follow a track crossing all the plain (Pian delle Muande). After leaving Teleccio Muanda on the left-hand side, cross some streams; from here there are two different approach ways:
- walk up a large gully on the right hand-side, then cross the gully towards left to reach the bivouac (easier but longer) – 2 hours from Pontese Hut
- climb on the left a steep rocky gully equipped with fixed rope rising straightly to the bivouac
1,40 hours from Pontese Hut.
There are no fees or permits needed to climb Monte Nero. The peak is located inside Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, established in 1922, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineer's peacefulness with every kind of noise.
Please respect the following rules in P.N.G.P. Gran Paradiso National:
Monte Nero routes overview from left to right (French Scale):
- NORTH RIDGE AND WEST SIDE First climbers’ route
- NORTH-EAST ROUTE
- VIA LA NAJA DAL CERVELLO TD inf., 300 mt. Not equipped
- DIRECT ROUTE ED, 6b, 350 mt. Not equipped.
- MAN IN BLACK ED inf., 6b+ obbl., 440 mt. Bolts. Necessary friends and nuts.
- HASTA SIEMPRE TD sup., 6c, 6a+ obbl. 490 mt. Bolts. Necessary friends and nuts.
- VOLPATTO ROUTE AD sup., 4b 400 mt. Not equipped.
- RIBALDONE ROUTE D sup., 4c 350 mt. Not equipped.
- SOUTH RIDGE 400 mt.
- CROSSING SOUTH-NORTH
Huts and Bivouacs
Rifugio Pontese at the beginning of Pian delle Muande, above the Teleccio reservoir mt. 2200 (guarded by “Gran Paradiso Friends” Association) open in summer (40 minutes from Teleccio Lake) - 60 places, 10 in winter-room
Gino Carpano Bivouac mt. 2865 (“Turin Young Mountain”) always open. 2 hours from Pontese Hut.
When to climb
Guidebooks and maps
"Rock Paradise – Classic, modern and sportive climbing in Gran Paradiso valleys” by Maurizio Oviglia Ed. Versante Sud 2000
“Gran Paradiso” by E. Andreis, R. Chabod and M.C. Santi Guide dei Monti d’Italia TCI-CAI
“Gran Paradiso - La Grivola - Cogne” – IGC 101 1:25.000
"Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso" - IGC 3 1:50.000