Dinosaur Rock- 5.7-5.12a

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 34.02320°N / 116.1636°W
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
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Overview/Approach

Gorgasaurus, 5.7
Gorgasaurus' Traverse

Dinosaur Rock is part of an area labeled the “Outback” in Jtree.  The Outback really is not that “out” there.  In reality it is just a short walk from the Hidden Valley campground.  From south to north just west of the campground, the formations line up as the Blob, Outhouse Rock, Rock Hudson and finally Dinosaur Rock.  Dinosaur Rock is by far the smallest of these four formations and features just four published routes as of 2018.  They are all worthy within their grade.

Gorgasaurus, 5.7, does not get a recommendation in Miramontes guide but should.  It offers a perfect hands splitter (far left side of the wall)  to access a long well protected rightward traverse .  Not overly challenging, but fun for those leading trad at this level.  Negasaurus, 5.9*, offers a stellar first few meters of crack climbing off the deck before easing way off.  It is also used to access Goolabunga, 5.10b*, which offers interesting bolted face climbing at the right side of this west facing wall.  You can descend by scrambling back and down south via  a few 5th class sections.  There are no fixed raps.  A slung block is mentioned in the latest guide (2017) but it is no longer as of 2018.

You can park a variety of places, but from the large Intersection Rock trail head, hike through the campground to the trail at the northwest end that leads out past Outhouse Rock on your left and Rock Hudson on your right.  Turn right and Dinosaur Rock will be the next formation on your right.  All the climbs are on the west facing wall. 

Route Descriptions from Left to Right as you face the West Facing Wall

Gorgasaurus, 5.7
Dow leading Gorgasaurus, 5.7

Gorgesaurus- 90’-5.7/  This route definitely deserves a star recommendation (that it did not receive) in Miramontes guide as it is easily better than half the starred up 5.7’s in the guide.  Excellent hand crack on the left side of the wall leads to the obvious rightward traverse.  Starts out with a grade awkward move on the traverse but becomes easy quickly.  Medium gear belay at the right end of the wall.   There is no tied off rap block as the guide suggests.  Scramble down the backside and 5th class down skiers right (south).  Single rack.  Shoulder length slings.  Dow

Dyno-Soar- 80’-5.12a*/

Negasaurus- 60’-5.9*/ Crux move off the ground to reach a solid hand. Then up a dirty crack to the right. A decent finger/hand crack straight up. Then traverse left along a hand rail to a hand crack to the top.  Same descent.   Dow

Goolabunga- 60’-5.10b*/ Good route.  Climb up Negasaurus’ finger crack.  Traverse right along the ledge and climb the bolted face through four bolts to the top.  The first moves on the face via lay backing off the right side arête are cool.   Gear anchor.  Same descent as Gorgasaurus.  Dow



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