Dutzi Rock, 5.6-5.11b

Overview/Approach

This southeast facing wall in the remote (but not a long hike by any stretch) northern reaches of the Outback area is not overly impressive.  It is located northwest of Rock Hudson and Dinosaur Rock.  If in that area looking northwest, it is easy to get a visual on it as an obvious, but relatively small, face half way up and centered on a jumbled formation surrounded by dense cacti and brush.  At the top of the wall is a sloped ledge with a short face about 30’ to the west which offers a horizontal crack to build gear belays.  For descent you can scramble down either right or left for any of the climbs.

None of these climbs warrant classic status, but Shakin’ the Shirts, 5.10a*, is a good trad lead at the grade in Jtree.  It is a right weighted diagonal splitter (all trad) to the top of the wall therefore offers some cool off balance crack climbing.  Elusive Butterfly, 5.7*, is a relatively easy solo at the grade.  The arête out to its right, also 5.7, is either a solo or top rope.  Suzie’s Lip Cheese, 5.9, and Cream Cheese, 5.6, are way out left on more of a south facing section of the wall.  Moving back and forth along the base involves boulder hopping and bushwhacking.

You can park at a variety of places, but from the large Intersection Rock trail head, head through the campground to the trail at the northwest end that leads out past Outhouse Rock on your left and Rock Hudson on your right.  Turn right and slip between Dinosaur Rock on your right and Rollerball on your left.  Dutzi’s wall is clearly visible on the formation in the distance.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Southeast Wall

Suzie’s Cream Cheese- 50’-5.6/ Miramontes has these first two routes way off in height, they are almost half as tall as his guide suggests.  Shares a cool start with the next route, a bolted mini arch off the deck.  The bolt is old as of 2018.  After the neat arch mantle, an unremarkable lead up the right facing corner to a gear belay.  Dow

Suize’s Lip Cheese- 50’-5.9/ After the shared start with Cream Cheese, follow three bolts to the top (no gear as the guide suggests).  The crux is about midway, a thoughtful but short face sequence.  Can share the same gear belay as Cream Cheese.  Scramble off these two routes climber’s left.  There is a slung tree if you prefer to rap in one spot.  Dow

Pretzel Logic- 100’-5.10dR/

Elusive Butterfly- 60’-5.7*/ Not sustained for the grade but I get the star, it looks cool.  Burrow in behind a tree and start up a jointed corner.  This is a positive featured climb for the grade but the gear is sparse if you are leading it vs soloing it.  Make the easy mantle at the top of the corner up on a 5 class slope.  Small horizontal gear belay/top rope. Scramble down climber’s right.  Dow

Elusive Butterfly Arete- 60’-5.7*/ Meets up with Elusive Butterfly at the mantel.  Otherwise just climb the well featured arête to the right of the corner.  This is a top rope or solo only, no gear.  Same gear belay and descent as its namesake.  Dow

Figures on a Landscape- 50’-5.11b*/

Shakin’ the Shirts- 50’-5.10a*/ This is a decent lead up a diagonal (right leaning) crack that has fingers, hands, ring locks and holds.  The crack is chossy, therefore thoughtful gear placement.  The off center/balance climbing is the crux.  Small to medium gear belay/top rope.  Scramble down climbers right.  Dow