OverviewThis is a pretty clean rock route that heads directly from the base to the true summit.
Getting ThereApproach as for other east side routes and camp at the Palisade Glacier.
Route DescriptionStart at the base of the Underhill Couloir and leave your ice gear here if possible. Scramble right 200' and up 200' over loose shitty terrain to the base of a right-facing, left-leaning, low angle dihedral. This is hard to see until you are under it. It is at the bottom of a huge white intrusion that angles up and left across the face.
Climb the dihedral then zag right up a large block-filled low angled crack system. When this crack ends, climb up a clean flake and zig left to a belay ledge. Climb another pitch almost horizontal across clean flakes and edges to the start of 3rd class terrain. This is approx 4 pitches of 130' each.
Carefully route find up ~400' of 3rd class to gain the summit ridge. Scramble north the short distance to the summit block.