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East wall
Route

East wall

 
East wall

Page Type: Route

Location: Alpi Graie, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.51960°N / 7.26810°E

Object Title: East wall

Route Type: Ice/mixed climb

Time Required: Two days

Difficulty: AD+

Route Quality: 
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Page By: gasgenova

Created/Edited: Feb 18, 2004 / Feb 21, 2004

Object ID: 160102

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The east side is complety glacier with spectacular Tribolazione glacier seracc. The Tribolazione glacier is the most long of Gran Paradiso group. The Pol and Grappen hut is a very remote hut a classic “nido d’aquila”. This ascension is the best way to arrive to Gran Paradiso summit, it is not many frequently because it’s a faticosa ascension but are very beautiful the suggestion and the spectacular that it can give.
Height route 400 m

First Ascension:


P.G. Frassy and E. Jeantet in 15 September 1869

Approach:


To Valnontey (1866 m) take a wanted trail to Pol hut (3183 m). To Pol Hut go up to south-west into glacier. Turn the spur (3378 m) that you leave on the right. Take attention to crevasses and than you arrive to pass called “Colle della Luna”. This pass is to east of Punta Ceresole. Go to right (west) under the Punta Ceresole north side and with flat way you arrive to base of the Gran Paradiso east wall. (2,5 h).

Itinerary


A good start in the mooring is needed
Climb the schrund go to the centre of snow slope. The inclination now is 40° and on the final slope is 50°. Climbing the slope, you arrive to the summit

Descent


The best way is that to follow the normal route and arrive to rif. V. Emanuele and than to Pont. This way is more difficulty for the car access, but it’s good and very fast. If you want return in Valnontey, you must go down on Gran Paradiso glacier than go up on the ridge since Vaccarone pass. Go down to couloir that is on south of Roc. Now you follow the Roc east ridge since to arrive to Colle dell’Ape 3873 m. Go down to slope and arrive to Tribolazione glacier. Now you take the route that you have done to climb. Summit-Pol hut (2,5/3 h) and now you come back to Valnontey.

Gear


Crampons and ice axe

Guidebook


“Gran Paradiso” Guida dei Monti d’Italia E. Andreis, R. Chabod and M.C. Santi – Club Alpino Italiano, Touring Club Italiano 1980

“Gran Paradiso e Valli di Lanzo” Le cento più belle ascensioni. Gian Carlo Grassi – Ed. Zanichelli 1982

Images

The E face of Gran Paradiso... East wall of Gran Paradiso group, viewed from  the facing Money bivouac <i>2810m</i>The east wall of Gran...