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Page Type: Route

Location: Alpi Graie, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.51960°N / 7.26810°E

Object Title: Normal

Route Type: Basic Snow/Glacier Climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: F

Route Quality: 
 - 16 Votes
 

 

Page By: eluc

Created/Edited: Feb 14, 2002 / Feb 5, 2014

Object ID: 156200

Hits: 5857 

Page Score: 73.24%  - 6 Votes 

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Approach

From Pont Valsavarenche (Val d'Aosta, Italy, 2000 m) to Refuge Vittorio Emanuele (2732 m, 2,5 h).

Route Description

From the refuge take the well-signed path (stone's towers) in direction NE until a couloir collecting water from Laveciau glacier (1h). Go up until the glacier and climb it until "Schiena d'asino", the cross between Laveciau and Gran Paradiso glacier (2h). Then turn to left (N) to traverse long along the glacier near the terminal crevasse. The last meters before the summit are an easy rock climb (II,II+) with some exposed step (2h). Descente follow the same way

In last years, Gran Paradiso glaciers, as all Alp's glaciers, lost great part of its ice. Nowadays, to reach the glacier, a long walk (1h) between rocks and stones is needed. The best path is signed by stone towers, sometimes in a unclear manner. Mainly the path follows the torrent, before on the right side, then on the left one.

Essential Gear

Crampons and ice axe needed. Rope is suggested. Some protection may be needed for the last climb to the summit.
Best period to climb is June-september depending by the snow situation.
To sleep at Vittorio Emanuele hutte, better reserve almost 2-3 week before.
Leave the refuge early (4h30 - 5h) to reach the summit at 9h30-10h30.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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