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| Easton Glacier   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 48.77113°N / 121.82396°W GPX File: Download GPX » View Route on Map Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering Season: Spring, Summer Time Required: One to two days Difficulty: Glacier Walk Grade: I
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| Page By: Josh Lewis Created/Edited: Jul 20, 2001 / Oct 9, 2011 Object ID: 155616 Hits: 19932 Loading... Page Score: 86.93% - 7 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach  Near The Summit Crater, July 2007
In terms of the angle of slope and technical skill required, this is the easiest route on Mount Baker. But don't let that fool you. The Easton Glacier is heavily crevassed and crevasse falls do occur every year. Some climbers take unacceptable risks when they decide to climb the Easton glacier unroped early in Spring with the hopes that all crevasses will be safely covered in snow.
From the Schreiber's Meadow trailhead follow the trail up Railroad Grade Ridge, a prominent lateral moraine formed by the retreating Easton Glacier. Campsites on the Railroad Grade are available from 5500' to 7000' feet or higher.
Route Description  Map Posted by SP user Ineher
Follow the trail though Schriebers Meadow traveling westward and cross the creek at 3600 feet and turn north towards Railroad Grade Ridge. Gain the crest of the ridge at the spot of your choosing and follow the crest north avoiding the tongue of the Easton Glacier.
Just before reaching an altitude of 6000 feet it is necessary to rope up for normal glacial travel. Continue to follow the climbers path north toward the crater rim being careful to avoid crevasses. Above the crater (9800 feet) the grade becomes steeper on the Roman Wall and this is probably the most challenging / fun section of the route. Above the Roman Wall, the flat top is the size of several football fields. Now turn northwest towards Grant's Peak, the true summit.Getting ThereView Google Map Directions here.
From Seattle: Take I-5 for about 60 miles until you get to Mount Vernon, take a right at exit 230 onto Highway 20. After about .2 miles be sure to take a left onto S Burlington Blvd (this goes North). After .4 miles take a right back onto highway 20 (at this part of town it is known as Avon Ave). In about 22 miles you will see a road called "Baker Lake Road" which will be on your left, take this road for about 12.2 miles. From here there is a fork in the road, be sure to go left which goes onto NF Road 12. In 3.5 miles you reach another fork in the road, take a right onto NF Road 13. This road will take you to the trailhead.
The road may be snow covered in early season making it a longer approach. Many decide on bringing ski's to make traveling faster.Gear for the ClimbFor this climb you will need standard Glacier gear as well as warm clothing for if the weather turns bad up here.
Mandatory Gear for the Climb:
- Ice Axe
- Crampons
- Helmet
- Rope
- Glacier Rescue Gear (prussiks, carribeaners, webbing, ect.)
- 2 Snow Pickets (for standard glacier travel)
- Shell Jacket
- Inner Layer Jacket
- 2-3 Liters of Water Per Person
- Stove, Stove Fuel, Pot, and utensils (for cooking)
- Water Filter/Tablets
- First Aid Kit
- Glacier Glasses/Goggles
- Nylon Shell Pants
- Sun Screen
- Map and Compass
- Toilet Paper/Blue Bag
- Full Scale Mountaineering Boots (or plastics if your up to it)
- Long and Short Sleeve Shirt
- Plenty of Food
Overnight Gear:
- Tent/Bivy(for overnight travel)
- Sleeping Bag
- Ground Pad
Optional Gear you may Want:
- Approach Shoes
- Bug Spray (Black Flies get Crazy during August)
- Camera (Highly Recommended)
- Shorts
- Cover for your Backpack
- Trekking Polls
- GPS
Hazards
1) Glacier Travel - This route to the summit of Mount Baker involves crossing a glacier. Many climbers and snowboarders tackle this route earlier in the season relying on the idea that with enough snow, crevasses will be filled in or covered up. This brings to mind the saying "There are a lot of old mountaineers and there are a lot of bold mountaineers, but there are not a lot of old-bold mountaineers." Don't be reckless. Bring ropes, crampons, ice-axe, and the necessary gear to perform a crevasse rescue if a fall occurs. I have seen crevasse fall with my own eyes on Baker as early as April.
2) Avalanche - In early season (before May) be aware of current snow conditions and check the avalanche forecasts.
3) Weather - Mount Baker being one of the Cascade volcanoes that reaches above 10,000 feet has unpredictable weather. Be prepaired for all conditions. Don't venture into high altitude unless you are equipped for emergency bivouac. I have seen clouds hang over this mountain and higher up it turned into a full-on blizzard.
4) Snowmobiles - Due to the start being at a snow park, climbing this route in the early season can be extremely irritating. You have to hike in 4 long miles on a sometimes snowmobile infested road before you get to the trail head.
Don't do this route before May 15th unless:
A. You have a snow mobile
B. You like sucking exhaust.
C. You're on crack.Skiing and Snowboarding This route is very popular for snow sports, especially from the top of the Railroad Grade all the way to the car.
Before July you can usually ski up the valley below the Railroad Grade, which makes a great ski out. If you intend to stay off the glacier, make sure you know where the boundaries are located. Weather and Mountain Conditions For information on the current forecast be sure to check in with noaa.
For the avalanche forecast see the North West Avalanche Center Website (seasonal). CampingComing Soon...
Crowded Camp on Baker |
When to Climb This route is often climbed between the month of May through August. The year snow pack plays a role in what month is best for climbing, the best time to climb this route is late July when weather improves and avalanche danger is low. In August more crevasses form making more switch backing and traveling on the glacier. In the early season months you have to watch for avalanche danger and bad weather. This route is climbed all year. Images
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Mt. Baker Scenic Byway
