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Espolón Paiju
Route

Espolón Paiju

 
Espolón Paiju

Page Type: Route

Location: Alicante, Spain, Europe

Lat/Lon: 38.51733°N / 0.40677°W

Object Title: Espolón Paiju

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 6

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: _epueo_

Created/Edited: Aug 19, 2009 / Aug 28, 2009

Object ID: 542728

Hits: 1056 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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First Ascension

J. Agulló & F. Durá (1973)


Approach

From the Cabeçó d'Or parking, follow the forest road (500m) until we find a concrete slope where we take a path on the right-hand. In about 15 minutes, we have reach the base of the route. From the path, we can see the sport sector (photo)

Sport climbing sector (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
Sport sector



Route Description

1st pitch (IV+, 35m) Start to climb at the right-hand of the rib, looking for the arete.

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
The 1st pitch



2nd pitch (V, 30m) Climb by the rib, and continue slightly to the left to a belay.

Espolón Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
The 2nd pitch



3rd pitch (V, 45m) Follow the logical line in the rib to a terrace full of shrubs.

4th pitch (IV+, 25m) We go back to the rib to a belay ledge

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
The 4th pitch



5th pitch (IV+, 30m) It's possible to do this pitch together with the preceding. Climb up to headwall and traverse left to an uncomfortable and poor belay (a rusty spit & threads). It's advisable to complete the belay with a friend. (2006.06.24)

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
The 5th pitch

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
Belaying the 6th pitch



6th pitch (6b - V+/A1, 35m) The crucial pitch. Climb along the crack slightly upwards to the obvious end of the route. Very few supports to the feet. To belay the second, we can do in a rock bridge at the end of the terrace . When I climb this route, we decided to free climb this pitch, and certainly, it was hard for me

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
The 6th pitch

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
The 6th pitch

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24
The 6th pitch



The descent route is marked in blue in the main photo.


Essential Gear

Personal equipment (harness, helmet,...)
10-12 quickdraw
Friends or cams
Nuts
Advisable two ropes
Large rings
Comfortable shoes for the descent


When to climb

In summer, it's necesary to start early to avoid the harder sun.
In the rest of the seasons, there's no special problem, although in winter can be cold specially in the 6th pitch because of its orientation.


External links

http://www.epueo.com/Escalada/indexescalada.htm


Images

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24El Cabeçó d\'Or summit. 2006.06.24Espolón Paiju. 2006.06.24Sport climbing sector (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24Espolón Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24
Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d\'Or). 2006.06.24