OverviewThis is the route without glacier to reach the ridge of peaks of Baquo, but it's not the easiest beacuse the glacier route is easier (F.sup.).
Getting ThereSee the main page to reach Refuge de Estós or Refuge du Portillon. The mountaineers normally reach the West ridge from Refuge of Estós but the Puerto de Oô(2.909m) is reachable from Refuge du Portillon as well. I write the approach from Estós to this route and the glacier route in the route of Refuge du Portillon, but both routes are join in the glacier of Baquo.
Route DescriptionFrom Refuge de Estós (1.890m) you take the path behind the W.C. following a narrow path in the grass. You ascent across an area with small waterfalls and rivers and some rocky terraces. Sometimes is difficult to find the better point to cross the water on spring. You reach the two lakes (ibones) of Gías and you see on left side Pico Gías (3.011m) and Clarabides (3.020m) and the Puerto de Gías with the important Gourgs Blancs (3.129m) in front of you. On right side is the ridge of Picos dera Baquo. You must search the col on right side of Gourgs Blancs, just right of the cone of Pic Arlaud (the final peak of Gourgs Blancs) called Puerto de Oô.
You leave the route some meters before Puerto de Oô turning to right side searching among the stones the edge of the ridge. A big cairn signals the beginning of ridge West of Baquo. The ridge is easy initially with some rock-climbs of I+ or II- always searching the better way on right side of the ridge. Near of the Pic Audoubert is the most difficult pass with a narrow exposed ridge of II (P.D.). The final section goes on right side across an easy walk-up to the summit of Pic Audoubert (3.045m). After some meters you reach the small rocky col with the first peak of Baquo, the Cap dera Baquo Occidental or Western. In this point you can choose to descent to glacier if the snow reach the ridge of to follow the ridge. It’s better the ridge because rock-climb is easier (I+, F.sup.) than ridge of Audoubert. In the worse part you leave the ridge to enter in the N.W. face (left) to reach the summit of Cap dera Baquo Occidental (3.097m). In the summit we follow the narrow ridge, very exposed but easy (F.sup. with some rock climb of II-). It’s one of the most spectacular parts of the ridge with nice view of other peaks. You climb an easy pile of stones to reach the summit of Cap dera Baquo Oriental or Eastern (3.103m). You descent in left side of the edge to reach the col with the last peak. This section is a walk-up just over the edge of the ridge. It’s impressive but very easy (you must be careful with rain or snow). You climb another section (F.sup., I+) to reach the highest summit of peaks of Baquo called Seil dera Baquo (3.110m) with marvellous landscape of the areas of Lake of Portillon, Perdiguero, valley of Estós, Maladeta’s massif, Posets…
Posibilities from the summit:
-you can return to Cap dera Baquo Occidental to descent to the glacier of Baquo (North), using the Puerto de Oô to return to the Refuge de Estós.
-you can follow the ridge descending to Pequeño Pico Portillon (3.000m). This part is easy (F.sup.) not exposed. Between this peak and Pico Portillon you need make a rappel to the gap and the exit is a wall of III (P.D.sup.) with a cracked ridge to summit of Pico Portillon (m). Many people make a new rappel in the channel (P.D.inf.) to descent to Portillon de Oô (m). From there is possible to descent to Refuge de Estós or the valley across Cabaña (Hut) of Turmo.
Essential GearOn spring (May-June) you need the use of crapons and ice-axe to reach the Pierto de Oô but on summer the snow dissapear.
The use of rope and harness is advisable to people withoy experience in rock-climb of grade II.