OverviewThis is a good climbr for the people in Refuge du Portillon. The glacier is small and is the shortest option from the North. If you love rock-climb you can turn to Puerto de Oô to use the west ridge from the point of entry of glacier but is harder and longer.
Getting ThereSee the main page to approach to Refuge du Portillon from Granges d'Astau (walk of 4h30min) the previous day.
We leave the Refuge to right side (S.W.) across some rocky terraces under the peak Tussé de Montarcqué in direction to a col with a pluviometer (rain gauge). In the small col we turn to left (South) entering in the upper part of glacier of Baquo. This traverse is short but in summer you has the ice of the glacier and you need generally the use of crampons. In spring the snow is soft and you don´t need crampons many sunny days. In the small shoulder over the glacier we reach the bottom of a cracked area under Cap dera Baquo Occidental. We attack the ridge for the right side across a lot of stones and sand. After this bad terrain we reach the easy pile of stones under the summit and we reach the top of Cap dera Baquo Occidental (3.097m). From this summit the route is the same of the West ridge.