ApproachFrom the picnic area, hike past the rock cabin southeast on a well-used trail. A hundred yard or so past the cabin, the trail climbs a rocky hill. Turn right at the top of the hill and head southwest. The trail will circle around toward the creek and enter the woods. After a hundred yards or so, the trail will leave the woods and cross the creek. After the crossing, climb a slight grade to the top of the ridge where you will be able to see Wizard Wall on the left and great views down the canyon. The trail drops down the right side and crosses the creek again. Follow a sandy trail for about 100 yards. Look for Zoo Wall high and to the right. Don't go too far, and cross the creek again shortly after Zoo Wall. Follow the switchbacks up to Zoo Wall. At the top of the switchbacks and the base of the wall, look left into a tunnel through the rock. Crawl through the little tunnel, go about 20 yards down a ledge, then go up to left Zoo Wall.
Route DescriptionStart with fairly easy climbing until reaching the roof. It looks intimidating, but the holds are there. Once above the roof, the pro and the holds are thin, but what the hey. After the roof follow a thin crack to the top. 80 ft.
Fantasy Roof: Route #4. Click to enlarge.
Essential GearOne 60 meter rope, small pro. A fairly large cam will protect the roof move. Helmet.
Bring some long slings or cordalette for building an anchor at the top.