ApproachFrom the picnic area, hike past the rock cabin southeast on a well-used trail. A hundred yard or so past the cabin, the trail climbs a rocky hill. Turn right at the top of the hill and head southwest. The trail will circle around toward the creek and enter the woods. After a hundred yards or so, the trail will leave the woods and cross the creek. After the crossing, climb a slight grade to the top of the ridge where you will be able to see Wizard Wall on the left and great views down the canyon. The trail drops down the right side and crosses the creek again. Follow the creek past Zoo wall which will be high and on your right. Lichen wall rises directly out of the creek water about 200 yards past Zoo wall. Old Number 7 begins to the right of Ker Plunk.
Another trail follows the top of the wall; however, this is used as an exit to some of the other routes.
Route DescriptionRoute #3 on the photo below.
Begin with bouldery unprotectable face moves for about 15 feet until reaching a crack. Follow the obvious route through a series of cracks, overhangs, and chimneys for 120 ft. Once you reach the rock gully, a nice tree will greet you. Belay at the tree for the end of the first pitch. For the second pitch, continue up the gully and exit to the right to the top.
Another one-pitch variation ends at the tree and traverses to the climber's left. Use the tree to belay a down-climb to the climbers left and end at the rap anchors (as seen in the photo which says "RAP"). Aim your rap to the right to avoid the water.
Gear: Set of stoppers and cams to 3.5. Double up on the mid-sizes if you like to zip it up. One 60 meter rope if doing the one-pitch variation. The rope will reach the bottom with stretch...just make sure you knot your ends. :) Two ropes needed if you rap off the top.
Rockfall is common so a helmet is recommended for the belayer.
Watch for poison ivy near the beginning of the route and around the boulders near the creek.