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First Creek Slabs, 5.5-5.11a
Mountain/Rock

First Creek Slabs, 5.5-5.11a

 
First Creek Slabs, 5.5-5.11a

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Nevada, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.08020°N / 115.48578°W

Object Title: First Creek Slabs, 5.5-5.11a

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Nov 13, 2012 / Feb 28, 2013

Object ID: 825221

Hits: 849 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Hot Flash, III, 5.8
Hot Flash, III, 5.8

The obscure and less popular First Creek Slabs in First Creek Canyon offers a hidden gem at Red Rock, Celtic Cracks (5.10d). It's roof pitch, named the Shamrock Roof, when linked with the corner pitch below it, is one of the finer moderate (5.10) pitches of trad climbing in the park. The route itself has zero fixed gear and offers a full day of climbing with some total 2250’+/- of 5th class elevation gain involving the climb itself (1250’) along with a plethora of lower route options (1000’). They obviously named Celtic Cracks after the prevalent green moss growing on this mostly shaded northeast face of Indecision Peak. A much more popular route amongst the local sport crowd is Rising Moons (5.5). This is a simple three pitch route that allows new trad climbers the opportunity to hone their skills. Another route that has gained some popularity is Hot Flash (5.9), another of many Urioste routes, this one established in 2006. After those three, the routes at First Creek Slabs become much less traveled.

Park at the official First Creek pull-out on Highway 159. Hike along the trail above the left side of the wash as you enter the canyon passing under Lotta Balls Wall and the Romper Room area. The first route to mark the First Creek Slabs area is Rising Moons. Hike up the left side of the canyon floor to the base of a white sandstone tower with a triangular block resting below it.

Route Description(s)

 
Rising Moons
 
 
Celtic Cracks, 5.10d
 
 
Celtic Cracks, 5.10d
 
 
Descent
 

Routes are Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

Lower Tier
  • Rising Moons-3 Pitches- 5.5/
  • Rising Moons is a short three pitch route covering approximately 400’ that it took me less than 30 minutes total to ascend and descend excluding the one hour approach. The first pitch runs up a darkly varnished chimney to a treed ledge. The second pitch is made up of solid rock and runs to the top of the leaning tower, via mostly well varnished face climbing out right of the chimney which leads to a fixed belay at top. The last pitch is above the tower via a wide crack in whitish sandstone. If free soloing, you will feel much more exposed on this final pitch. At the top is a singular bolt (2012) and tree fixed for rappel. I took two single rope raps which got me down most of the second pitch and then down climbed the rest of the route. Dow

  • Temp Files- 1000’- 5.9/

  • Sunset Slab- 1000’- 5.7/

  • Big Sky- 1000’- 5.7/

  • Romanian Rib- 1000’- 5.5/

  • Romanian Rib (left)- 1000’- 5.7/

  • Comeback Corner- 1300’- 5.9/

  • Hot Flash-10 Pitches- 5.8/
  • Another trad special at Red Rocks, Hot Flash is a fairly new route in First Creek Canyon put in by Larry DeAngelo along with the Uriostes and Bill Hotz in 2006. It was Crazy Larry’s positive remarks about Hot Flash at Mountain Project that caught my attention. After climbing it however, I was not that impressed with the line. I did need a long mellow day with a new partner and Hot Flash did fit the bill for that, offering little in the way of crux climbing by Red Rocks 5.8 standards. Most all the belays were quite comfortable and the route easy to navigate. Dow

  • Tin Pan Alley- 1100’- 5.9/

  • Karsten’s Pyramid- 1300’- 5.9/


  • Upper Tier
  • Worried Wives’ Club- 1200’- 5.10d/

  • Celtic Cracks-15 Pitches- 5.10d/
  • Only two pitches go at 5.10 and I linked those. Although the roof has a published grade of 5.10d, most, including myself, would say that section of the climb is closer to 5.10-. After those two pitches, there is not a pitch harder than 5.9 and the upper half of the route follows the same wide crack to the top. My preference for the approach to the route is to climb (solo if both parties are competent enough) Rising Moons which I on-sighted solo when I first climbed it. There is not a move harder than 5.5 on Rising Moons. Then make a quick run (simul or solo) up the wide descent gully most use for descent after they have climbed the lower slab routes, most of which are all a 1000’ in height. This gully leads directly to the first pitch of Celtic Cracks on the ledge separating the lower and upper walls of First Creek Slabs. Dow

  • Tiers of the Setting Sun- 1300’- 5.11a/
  • External Links

  • Over 300 routes detailed from first hand successful accounts at Red Rock Canyon. GET OFF THE TOURIST ROUTES and explore!
  • Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM
  • Images

    Celtic Cracks, 5.10d