Overview"Hang Em High" 5.8 is a classic and fun 5 pitch climb that requires solid skills and comfort on sierra granite. The route actually starts on the 2nd pitch and may be accessed either from "Tollhouse Traverse" 5.5 or "Direct" 5.10a. The first pitch of "Direct" is only rated 5.10a for the first 2 bolts and felt much more like 5.9 face climbing to us.
I HIGHLY recommend this fun route. It is varied, challenging, and beautiful. It is also one of the longer routes at Tollhouse.
What more can a climber ask for?????
Getting ThereDescent Trail: Please follow Dave Daly's Intructions for the approach to Tollhouse Rock. Use the descent trail to access the first pitch of either "Tollhouse Traverse" or "Direct." I recommend "Direct" as a fun friction start with the oportunity to place gear as well. "Direct" starts about 10 feet to the right of "Traverse."
Rap Route: Begins on the ledge that the route finishes on, on the upper left of the rock, just North of Cap rock. Descend 3rd 4rth book to a ledge with two rap hangers. I have used two 60m ropes.
Pitch #1 Option #1 "Tollhouse Traverse" - 5.5: Start up the "Traverse" crack placing trad gear and stay right on the main crack rather than flowing the "Traverse" route to the left. Move off the crack at the top of the flake on the right. You will see a nasty homemade 3 bolt anchor that is the start of "Hang Em' High."
Pitch #1 Option #2 "Direct" - 5.10a: Start climbing the face to the right of the "Traverse" crack. It has 2 bolts and we also threw a sling around the tree on the crack above the first bolt. Climb up onto the crack system and follow the crack left all the way to the homemade 3 bolt anchor that is the start of "Hang Em High." You will want to place some trad gear and sling a few flakes along the way.
Pitch #2 - 5.8: Start up and slightly right to the first bomber bolt and then follow the bolt line up and slightly left for the remaining 7 bolts. This is the steepest section of the climb but is well bolted and feels very secure. There are wonderful oportunities for high stepping and most of this pitch has great hand and feet placement. The last 3 bolts are spread much further apart but the grade is not as steep. Belay at a two bolt anchor dirctly above a dish with a load of bird crap streaking down it.
Pitch #3 - 5.7: This pitch could possibly deserve a runout rating with only 3 bolts but it feels solid if you have the slab skills. Follow the obvious line up and slightly right for 3 bolts until you get to the 2 bolt anchor. (Note: The SEKI guide book only shows 2 bolts on this pitch but it does in fact have 3.)
Pitch #4 - 5.7R: This pitch is short and has NO bolts. Follow the extremeley obvious line straight up the section that has no lichen on it. Build a trad belay in the huge rocks above or just body belay the follower up this simple fun pitch. (There are GREAT interesting little black notches in this pitch. Look for them to hold onto and be amazed by nature!)
Pitch #5 - 4th Class: Finish by heading up until you reach the 4rth class ramp which heads up to the right then left up a small corner to the summit.
Essential Gear60 meter rope
Some trad gear to protect the pitch #1 cracks
9 draws (at least) that can be extended to reduce rope drag.
Belay building equipment and skills