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Hanzova pot (Hanza Route)
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Hanzova pot (Hanza Route)

 
Hanzova pot (Hanza Route)

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.42550°N / 13.77400°E

Object Title: Hanzova pot (Hanza Route)

Route Type: Scramble on feratta and a lot of climbing UIAA II

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Very hard ferrata

Route Quality: 
 - 7 Votes
 

 

Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Aug 5, 2004 / Sep 5, 2011

Object ID: 161724

Hits: 8745 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Warning

September 5th, 2011. Due to landslide on the altitude of 2200 m, Hansa route is officially closed. The passage is dangerous and still exposed to falling rocks.

Vid Pogačnik

Approach

You drive to the Kranjska Gora. Kranjska Gora is well known skiing area.
Then go on the road to the Vrsic. You drive to the Kocha na Gozdu 1226m. From Kranjska gora 8 kilometrs or 2 hours by walk.

Route Description

This feratta is the only route on the Prisojnik which goes in full in the north face. A lot of people say that the Hanzova route is the hardest feratta in Slovenia. I agree with them.

You follow the red signs to the face after the scree. Then you start climb and the route goes through the waterfall and if it is big (in early summer) you can be very wet!

The route follows ledges to the famous "Hanzova stena" which is one of the important part of the route. You climb it and then come to the basin under the Hudicev steber ( Devil`s pillar) and Hudicev zleb ( Devil`s channel). Then the route comes down and traverses the ledges to the crossing with Kopiscarjeva route (West-front window).

Here you can turn right and go to the Kopiscarjeva route or continue to the left on Hanzova route.

Hanzova route here climbs a chimney and comes on the scree. Here you are in the middle of the north face.

After the scree you carefully climb the ledges which lead you to the nearness summit of the Hudicev steber. You can go to the summit easily by a nice walk.

Our route continue forward and you are already on the ridge for a few minutes and the route go right into the incursion of the summit and climb directly up to the ridge in nearness of the summit.

Only one hard place for climb and you are on the summit!!!

You descend over the south slopes ( it is the easiest route) or you can take any other possibilities.

Essential Gear

Rope, climbing belt, helmet, in early summer crampons and ice-pick ( a lot of snowfields)

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Just below the summit of...Hudicev zleb (Devil`s...Through the waterfall on the...Prisojnik - HanzovaThe famous Hanzova wall on...Prisojnik - HanzovaPrisojnik - Hanzova
Nice climbing on the Hanza...The ledge on Hanza route. On...Prisojnik - HanzovaIn this wild world is Hanza...Prisojnik - HanzovaPrisojnik.<br />
 Foto: Bor SumradaPrisojnik - Hanzova