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Prisojnik
Mountain/Rock

Prisojnik

 
Prisojnik

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.42499°N / 13.76990°E

Object Title: Prisojnik

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 8356 ft / 2547 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Nov 1, 2002 / Dec 7, 2012

Object ID: 151324

Hits: 26583 

Page Score: 90.13%  - 31 Votes 

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What's New On This Page?

March 25th, 2006 - Harder climbs list and two pictures added.
January 8th, 2006 - A map with routes added.

Overview

 
Last light on Prisojnik
Prisojnik from the North

Prisojnik (also the alternative name is used: Prisank) is one of the greatest mountains of Julian Alps. It is far from being the highest one, but it makes a great impact with its broadness and massiveness. Approaching the mountain, because of its big western window in walls, you have a feeling that a great Cyclope is watching you. But actually Prisojnik has two "eyes". The other window is more eastwards, like a gothic cathedral, and even higher than the western one, but a little bit hidden among vertical walls.

It is interesting to observe a special phaenomenon, when the sun is shining through the mountain. But this is rare. I read that each year on February 1st around noon and on November 9th around 11 a.m. you can observe from the road on Vršič the sun shining through the front window - if nice weather, of course.

The mountain consists of several peaks. On the West Kraj Sten (2348 m) falls vertically towards Vrsic Pass. Towards the South, Prisojnik sends high rocky and on the bottom grassy slopes down to Trenta Valley. Towards the East a long crest goes, consisting of several peaks and towers: Zvoniki (2472 m), Zadnji Prisojnik (2392 m). On Škrbina saddle the Prisojnik massif connects to Razor (2601 m). And towards the North, like most mountains in Julian Alps, also Prisojnik has a huge north face. These walls are divided on two parts by a ridge, consisting a few peaks. One of them is Hudicev Steber (Devil's Pillar), an interesting tower for climbers. Neighbouring to it is the Hudicev Zleb (Devil's Couloir), a narrow, steep gorge, where a few years ago a tragedy happened - six climbers died on a sunny June day, swept by an avalanche. Even more towards the North there are fore-summits: Golicica, 2078m and Prednja glava, 1684m. The latter is often visited in winter by ice cascades climbers.

 
Prisojnik
View from the east
 
Prisojnik
View from the distance

The ascent on Prisojnik is not a hard one. Over its south slopes goes the easyest route. The mountain is often ascended also because of nearby Vrsic Pass (1616 m), where a good roads brings you. But the mountain is also interesting because of several medium and hard routes (ferrattas), which lead to the top over the northern side and by narrow ledges towards the East. Secured and marked routes also go through both windows, which is another special experience for a mountaineer. And the mountain is also attractive for climbers, who can find in its north walls several routes.

Getting There


Red spots are mountains which have own pages on SP.

Arriving in Slovenia from the North, you drive by the Sava river valley to Kranjska gora, a renown tourist resort. There a good road turns towards the South. After 12 km you reach the Vrsic Pass, 1616 m, where most routes begin. This road was built during the World War I by thousands of Russian (and other) prisonners. In 1917 a huge avalance killed hundreds of them. On this sad event now a small Russian Chapel is reminding visitors.

Arriving from the South, the road brings you to Vrsic through a beautiful Soca Valley. Soca is certainly one of the most beautiful rivers in Europe. Its turquoise colour is unique and also its liveliness and beautiful neighbouring landscape will attract your attention.

Over Vrsic Pass a regular bus line is operating during summer and autumn.

Maps:
Julijske Alpe - Triglav. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:20000
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.

Routes list


Prisojnik and its marked routes

Hikes and Ferratas


1. Over the South slopes. Medium hard hike-up. 4 hours from Vrshich.

2. By the West window (Prednje okno) and by the W ridge. Harder than #1, but more beautiful. Not a hard ferrata.

3. Through the West window (Kopishchar Route) and by the W ridge. A difficult ferrata, one of the most beautiful in Julian Alps. 4 hours from Erjavcheva Hut.

4. Hanza Route. A medium hard ferrata. Beautiful passages over the north face. 4-5 hours from Kocha na Gozdu (the longest ferrata in Slovenia, 1100m of altitude).
September 5th, 2011. Due to landslide on the altitude of 2200 m, Hansa route is officially closed. The passage is dangerous and still exposed to falling rocks.

5. Continuing towards the East. From the top a medium hard and very beautiful ferrata takes you by the ledges toward the East window, through it and down to Skrbina saddle.

6. A marked path also goes over the south slopes of Prisojnik almost horizontally from Vrsic to Skrbina and forward to Razor. From this path routes #1 and #2 branch. This path can also be accessed from Trenta valley, precisely from the road from Trenta to Vrhic. On the altitude of 1090 m (by a big roadmen house) you take a non-marked path which goes by the west side of Mlinarica creek and takes you to Skrbina saddle. Another non-marked path goes from the road towards the North a little higher and crosses Kranjska planina (alpine meadow).

If you are traversing Julian Alps from Vrsic towards the East, the most beautiful combination is #3 and #5. If you return to Vrsic, take for the ascent #3 (or #4 or #2 if you don't like a lot of air beneath your feet) and descend by #1.

Harder Climbs


For harder climbs two areas are popular:
- the walls of Zadnji Prisojnik,
- Hudicev zleb and Hudicev steber.

Zadnji Prisojnik


1. Centralna smer (Central Route). Kocevar, Perko, 1950. V-VI, 550m.

 
Hudicev zleb and Hudicev steber
 

Hudičev žleb and Hudičev steber


Hudičev žleb (Devil's Couloir). 60 deg/45 deg - 50 deg. Uroš Župančič, solo, 1936. First skiing: Vanja Matijevec, Lado Vidmar and Miha Pučko, 1978 (Here: video).
Hudičev steber (Devil's Butress). V-, 500m.

South Face


Tapeta. V+/IV, 250m. S. & V. Relja.

Miscelanuous


North Ridge of Prisojnik. III.

Red Tape

No limitation. The road over Vrsic Pass is free for public traffic, on a busy summer day you will hardly find a free parking place on the pass (and you need to pay for parking).

When To Climb

Summer and autumn are the best months.

Weather: see here.

Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).

Mountain huts

 
The girl face..
Girl's face

Along the road over Vrshich Pass there are several mountain huts, open in summer and autumn:

1. Mihov dom, 1085 m,
2. Koca na Gozdu 1226 m, Tel.: +050 626 641
3. Erjavceva koca, 1525 m, Tel.: +050 610 031
4. Ticarjev dom, 1618 m, Tel.: +050 634 571
5. Postarski dom, 1688 m, Tel.: +050 610 029

In Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels.
A few general facts for tourists and about camping you can find here.

Images