What's New On This Page?
> November 23rd, 2016 - Page completely renovated.
> March 25th, 2006 - Harder climbs list added.
> January 8th, 2006 - A map with routes added.
Prisojnik Gets Presented
Prisojnik (also the alternative name is used: Prisank) is one of the greatest mountains of Julian Alps. It is far from being the highest one, but it makes a great impact with its broadness and massiveness. When approaching the mountain, you have due to its big western rock window a feeling that a great Cyclope is watching you. But actually Prisojnik has two "eyes". The other rock window is more eastwards, like a gothic cathedral, and even higher than the western one, but a little bit hidden among vertical walls.
It is interesting to observe a special phaenomenon, when the sun is shining through the mountain, through its western window. But this is rare. I read that each year on February 1st around noon and on November 9th around 11 a.m. you can observe from the road on Vršič the sun shining through the front window - if nice weather, of course.
What to do there?
Prisojnik is primarilly the mountain for hikers, but also for all sorts of climbers. Some routes are protected, on those ferrata sections you don't need much climbing skills, only absence of vertigo. But there are also some nice classical climbing routes. Despite its grandeur, Prisojnik is actually missing high, compact walls. Rocks in the walls differ, so more difficult sections are intermitted with a bit easier, also scrambling terrain. In lower parts of the mountain in recent times winter climbs over frozen waterfalls are popular and the mountain is also interesting for classical winter ascents. And finally to mention skiing: Prisojnik is not a classical mountain for tour skiing. From the very summit only alpinistic descents can be done. But in lower parts and from below some walls nice classical ski tours can be done.
A Short Geography
The mountain consists of several peaks. On the West Kraj Sten (2348 m) falls vertically towards Vršič Pass. Towards the South, Prisojnik sends high rocky and on the bottom grassy slopes down to Trenta Valley. Towards the East a long crest goes, consisting of several peaks and towers: Zvoniki (2472 m), Zadnji Prisojnik (2392 m). On Škrbina saddle the Prisojnik massif connects to Razor (2601 m). And towards the North, like most mountains in Julian Alps, also Prisojnik has a huge north face. These walls are divided on two parts by a ridge, consisting of a few peaks. One of them is Hudičev Steber (Devil's Pillar), an interesting tower for climbers. Neighbouring to it is the Hudičev Žleb (Devil's Couloir), a narrow, steep gorge, where a few years ago a tragedy happened - six climbers died on a sunny June day, swept by an avalanche. Even more towards the North there are fore-summits: Goličica, 2078 m and Prednja glava, 1684 m. The latter is often visited in winter by ice cascades climbers. East of the North ridge a lonesome, high basin lies, called V Škednju. Nobody comes there, only rare climbers, seeking solitude. But from that basin the climb on top is also possible.
The highest part of Prisojnik massif is built of triassic limestone, of the massive and layered limestone from the Carnian era (some 230 million years old). The lowest parts on the west and north are however older, built of layered dolomites and limestones from Anisian and Ladinian era (some 235-245 million years old).
Red spots are mountains which have own pages on SP.
|road turns towards the South. After 12 km you reach the Vršič Pass, 1616 m, where most routes begin.|
Arriving from the South, the road brings you to Vršič through the beautiful Soča Valley. Soča is certainly one of the most beautiful rivers in Europe. Its turquoise colour is unique and also its liveliness and beautiful neighbouring landscape will attract your attention.
Over Vršič Pass a regular bus line is operating during summer and autumn.
Julijske Alpe - Triglav. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:20000
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Routes listThe ascent on Prisojnik is not a hard one. Over its south slopes goes the easiest route. The mountain is often ascended also because of nearby Vršič Pass (1616 m), where a good roads brings you. But the mountain is also interesting because of several medium and hard routes (ferrattas), which lead to the top over the northern side and by narrow ledges towards the East. Secured and marked routes also go through both windows, which is another special experience for a mountaineer. In all cases, after one of more difficult ascents, you can quickly return on Vršič pass by the normal route. The mountain is also attractive for climbers.
Hikes and Ferratas
1. Over the South slopes (normal). Medium hard hike-up (T3), 4 hours from Vršič pass. By the main hiking route we go southwards on Gladki rob, then we cross the southern slopes, through ravines ascend the upper slopes and scramble on top.
To the West window (Prednje okno) and by the W ridge. Harder than #1 (T4), but more beautiful. Some 4 h. Not a hard ferrata. As in #1 we reach first Gladki rob, then turn left and from the SW side reach the West window. There the ferrata section starts, which brings us on the panoramic W summit ridge.
3. Through the West window (Kopiščar Route) and by the W ridge. A difficult ferrata (C/D by the ferrata scale), one of the most beautiful in Julian Alps. 4 hours from Erjavčeva koča (hut).
4. Hanza Route. A medium difficuld ferrata (B/C by the ferrata scale). Beautiful passages over the north face. 4-5 hours from Koča na Gozdu (the longest ferrata in Slovenia, 1100 m of altitude).
Continuing towards the East. From the top a medium hard and very beautiful ferrata takes you by the ledges toward the East window, through it and down to Škrbina saddle. This is the Jubilejna pot.
6. A marked path also goes over the south slopes of Prisojnik almost horizontally from Vršič to Škrbina and further on Razor. From this path routes #1 and #2 branch. This path can also be accessed from Trenta valley, precisely from the road from Trenta to Vršič. On the altitude of 1090 m (by a big roadmen house) you take a non-marked path which goes by the west side of Mlinarica creek and takes you to Škrbina saddle. Another non-marked path goes from the road towards the North a little higher and crosses Kranjska planina (alpine meadow).
If you are traversing Julian Alps from Vršič towards the East, the most beautiful combination is #3 and #5. If you return to Vršič, take for the ascent #3 (or #4 or #2 if you don't like a lot of air beneath your feet) and descend by #1.
For harder climbs two areas are popular:
- the walls of Zadnji Prisojnik,
- Hudicev zleb and Hudicev steber.
1. Centralna smer (Central Route). Kocevar, Perko, 1950. V-VI, 550m.
Hudičev žleb and steber
Hudičev žleb (Devil's Couloir). 60 deg/45 deg - 50 deg. Uroš Župančič, solo, 1936. First skiing: Vanja Matijevec, Lado Vidmar and Miha Pučko, 1978 (Here: video).
Hudičev steber (Devil's Butress). V-, 500m.
Tapeta. V+/IV, 250m. S. & V. Relja.
North Ridge of Prisojnik. III.
|No limitation, in addition to the fact that the mountain is in the Triglav National Parc. The road over Vrsic Pass is free for public traffic, on a busy summer day you will hardly find a free parking place on the pass (and you need to pay for parking).|
When To Climb
Weather: see here.
Even better site is wunderground - here's the direct link to Kredarica station, 2515m (below Triglav summit).
Mountain hutsAlong the road over Vršič Pass there are several mountain huts, open in summer and autumn:
1. Mihov dom, 1085 m,
2. Koča na Gozdu 1226 m, Tel.: +050 626 641
3. Erjavceva koča, 1525 m, Tel.: +050 610 031
4. Tičarjev dom, 1618 m, Tel.: +050 634 571
5. Poštarski dom, 1688 m, Tel.: +050 610 029
In Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels.
A few general facts for tourists and about camping you can find here.