Headline Dome, 5.5-5.9+

Overview/Approach

Headline Dome is more of an easy cragging destination than a collection of multi pitch routes like Sheepshead, Muttonhead or Chaktar.  Even though the local guide lists many of the routes on Headline as 4 pitch routes, most all of them can be done in two pitches and are almost exclusively bolted, including many seams and cracks that could take gear.  Headline's climbing wall faces NE with a decent amount of sun on February mornings. 

The approach description the local guide offers is a bit convoluted.  The wall is closer to the saddle between Muttonhead and Sheepshead than the guide leads you to believe.   There are two options.  One is to follow a cairned trail (2022) directly down the hill east of the saddle at top the descent gully between Muttonhead and Sheepshead.  Easy and simple actually.  The other (recommended by the guide) is to continue hiking up the descent trail heading for the summit of Sheepshead.  Before the summit and once you reach an obvious level area atop the forested area, hike back down angling north on the ridge line to access a col between Headline Dome and Sheepshead.  Headline’s climbable face is NE facing.  You never see it (until you rap in) from this approach.  When you find that col slot, hike east through it and immediately look for a three-bolt scramble up on the left wall.  In 2022, there was a tent stored below it.  Scramble up the wall roped or unroped depending on your comfort level.  The third hanger is missing as of 2022.  Gain a treed corridor and travel through to the other side.  Descend skiers left looking to traverse left on a cairned (2022) ledge avoiding the right or center options/features.  Descend to the small summit feature below and rap from the east side which is a good spot to suit up and leave your packs under a tree.  Make four single rope raps down the low angled wall.  There is no reason for scrambling down 3^rd or 4^th class terrain on the west end of the summit block as the guide suggests.  There are rap rings at the top of that end if for some reason you prefer to descend that end.

Route Descriptions (left to right as you face this NE facing wall)

No Washington Politics in the Stronghold- 5.9/

The Mayor's on Crack- 5.9/

Melancholy For a Lost Age- 5.9*/

Stylistic Descent into Hell- 4 Pitches- 5.5**/

The Lone Ranger- 3 Pitches- 5.6+*/

Desecrator of the Wilderness- 4 Pitches- 5.8**/

The End of an Era- 4 Pitches -5.6***/ The only route on Headline receiving three stars from the local guide and deservedly so.  End of an Era is by far the more interesting route on Headline.  The guide book has it broken into 4 pitches, we led it as 2 with a 70m rope.  This is the only route listed on Headline Dome on MP.com as of 2022, and it rates it 5.7.  The last 200’ could easily be rated that vs 5.6.  It is one of the few routes on Headline that the crack feature was not bolted over.  Climb the obvious (tallest) crack in the center of the wall.  You can place gear at will.  At the top of the crack, continue following a flake that spits you out onto easy chicken heads straight above to the 2^nd fixed rap (200’).  The local guide and MP.com mention clipping bolts on the 2nd pitch.  I saw bolts for a different route to the left and one to the right, but straight up I did not clip any nor were any warranted, easy climbing to the 2^nd anchor.  From this anchor below the right side of the headwall above, climb straight up and make a cool airy move for the grade up onto the wall above the headwall.   Follow the bolts to the summit of the wall and where your packs should be if you rapped in at the south end of the wall which I recommend.  Dow

Extra Extra- 4 Pitches-5.9-**/ Just to the right of the End of an Era crack are a couple of cool flake features. Climb through those and continue to a fixed rap at 100’ and continue up slab to the 2^nd fixed anchor for a 200’ pitch with about 15 clips.  The 3^rd pitch is nothing special, but leads to another fixed rap at 100’.  The guidebook mentions a 4^th pitch, but it is mostly just 4^th class to a set of rap rings that some use to descend the wall from the top.  Never really felt any 5.9 movement.  The crux is a short slab section on the 2^nd 100’.  Dow

Read All About It- 100’-5.8**/ Nothing stood out on this fully bolted pitch just to the right of Extra Extra.  Dow

Lead Story- 3 Pitches- 5.8+**/ This was a cool route with several flakes to jug/pull over.  You can easily lead this route in one pitch.  You can place some gear in these flakes to supplement the bolts if you desire, 4 bolts through the first 100’ and then 5.4 plate climbing up and left and back right to a shared anchor.  You can sling a few features with slings if necessary.   This is yet another route where a 3^rd pitch is mentioned to the top at 5.2, but not really.  The upper wall at the north end is mostly just 4^th class.  Dow

Scared, Tired Old Man- 2 Pitches -5.8+**/ You can lead this route in one pitch with a 70m rope. I liked Scared more than the previous two routes, it offered several features and the movement seemed a bit more thoughtful or sustained.  You can supplement the bolts on pitch one if you would prefer, otherwise about 15 clips through a fixed rap and to a 2^nd one.  Dow

Luisa’s Line- 135’-5.8*/ 13 clips to a fixed rap.  You have many options to use for a 2^nd rap.  If you have a 70m rope, a competent climber can downclimb the last few meters just making one rap.  Not overly memorable but worth doing as you move down the line.  Dow

Masthead- 2 Pitches -5.9+*/ Despite only receiving one star in the local guide when most of its neighbors somehow receive two, this is the best route on the wall by far.  Good rock that again, with a 70m, can be led as one outstanding pitch at the grade through 18 clips.  Follow the hard to see bolts that are directly on a faint dike.  Cool dike moves lead up to a right leaning corner/roof.  Make the crux move on the entire wall by mantling the continuation of the dike, a balancey move at the grade.   Continue through a fixed rap and trend up and left climbing thoughtful face (edges and slab) through the remaining bolts to a fixed rap.  Again, many choices to reach the ground in two raps.  These lines are all close together at this end of the wall.   This route offers the most sustained movement on the wall.  Dow

Essential Gear

A 60m rope is fine unless you want to combine pitches as I have laid out, then a 70m is preferred.  Only route I climbed that appeared to need any gear is the 5.6 route named The End of an Era, the only route where a crack feature was not bolted over.  Routes face NE, get good morning sun in February.