Zappa Dome, 5.5-5.11

Overview/Approach

Zappa Dome is not my favorite climbing destination in Cochise by any stretch.   This sport climbing crag offers up routes that are neither sustained nor very tall.  However, it does offer relatively easy access and warmth during winter days.  It is the furthest northern climbing feature in the local guide book for the east side.

Burnt Weenie Sandwich, 5.10*, is the most thought provoking route I got on to date on Zappa.  Short, but punchy for the grade.  Most of the other routes seemed soft by Cochise standards.  The three 5.10- routes just to the right of Burnt Weenie were taller, but much easier.  You Are What You Is, 5.10-**, and We’re Only In It for the Money, 5.10-**, both offer fun short roof pulls. 

Turn right on the dirt road right after the cattle guard and before the interpretative sign pull-out on the right.  This road serves several free camping spots and dead ends below Batline Dome.  Drive or walk the road to the end (need high clearance).  Turn right on the road at the dead-end fork and catch a single track trail that descends below Batline into the wash to the north.  Turn left and head up the wash for a short distance looking for a well-established cairned trail on the right.  Hike up this climber’s trail as it dead ends in the middle of Zappa’s southeast facing wall at the black streak which is the route Burnt Weenie Sandwich.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face this Southeast Facing Wall

Plooking and Thrashing- 50’-5.10*/

Keep It Greasy- 50’-5.9+/

Friendly Little Finger- 50’-5.8+**/ I am not sure why this route receives a recommendation in the local guide.  It is short and non-consequential compared to the rest of the wall.  Six bolts vs the 5 listed in the guide.  Chain + rap hanger as are all the fixed raps on this wall as of 2020.  Far left past a few trees.  Third route left to right.  Dow

It Just Might be a One-Shot Deal- 70’-5.8-/

Conceptional Continuity- 80’-5.9*/ A better route at the grade than Friendly Little Finger but not sustained.  The 30’ or so that is at the grade involves fun climbing via a layback finger crack.  Fifth route left to right.  Dow

Treacherous Cretins- 80’-5.9-/

Mud Shark- 80’-5.7+*/

The Grand Wazoo- 75’-5.9*/ This is a better (more sustained) 5.9 than Conceptional Continuity.  It is just left of the black water streak (Burnt Weenie Sandwich).  The holds are 5.9 positive over steep ground most of the way.  Dow

Burnt Weenie Sandwich- 50’-5.10*/ Despite being shorter, this is the most challenging moderate route on the wall.  It is way more challenging than the three 5.10- routes directly to the right.  Climb the black water streak trending left when in doubt.  Thoughtful and intricate, somewhat blind, moves at the grade.  Slightly overhanging.  Well bolted (8).  Dow

Weasels Ripped My Flesh- 50’-5.11*/

Latent Appliance Fetishist- 80’-5.10*/

Playground Psychotics- 90’-5.10-**/ More 5.9 than 5.10-.  The easiest, or lacking any crux, in comparison to the two 5.10- routes just to the right of it.  Third route to the right of the black water streak.  The rock is better on these right-side routes.  They all give you a bit of slab here and there as well as some corners and roof features.  Dow

You Are What You Is- 100’-5.10-**/ This route has a fun small roof about half way up.  Easy under cling mantle.  The crux is the final meters via a few slab moves, but no more difficult than 5.10a.  Move down to the ground from where you started Playground or you will miss the starter bolt.  Dow

We’re Only In It for the Money- 100’-5.10-**/ Another borderline 5.9+ vs 5.10a with another small and fun roof.  The crux is during the last few meters via intricate face/slab climbing to the fixed rap.  Dow

Strictly Commercial- 90’-5.7*/

Excentrifugal Forz- 90’-5.8+*/

Token of My Extreme- 90’-5.5*/

One Size Fits All- 90’-5.8/