Upper Lost Tower, 5.7-5.11-

Overview/Approach

Hawk Pinnacle and Upper Lost Tower share a realtively narrow gully between Hawk's east face and Upper Lost Tower's west face.  Both of these destinations are located on the east side of Rockfellow Dome and together offer some of the finest selection of moderate trad climbing in all of the Stronghold:  Learning to Fly, 5.11****; Crossroads Chimney, 5.10PG****; Name Unknown (vertical dike), 5.9PG***; and Book of Andy, 5.10**** on Hawk Pinnacle and Half Ass, 5.10**** on Upper Lost Tower, one of the better off width challenges in the Stronghold.  Besides Half Ass, there are only four published routes on Upper Lost Tower as of 2024.  Have You Seen Me, 5.11-, is a left facing dihedral climb just to the right of Half Ass.  Regular Route, 5.7, is at the far-right side of this west facing wall and is a meandering sort of contrived route to the same fixed rap atop Half Ass. 

There are two ways to reach Hawk Pinnacle, from In the Shadows Trail circumventing Maybe Pinnacle and Lost Towers or from Rockfellow’s north face staging area.  If from Maybe Pinnacle, circumvent Maybe and Lost Towers to the north.  At the north end of Maybe’s east wall is an unmarked 4^th class handrail that cuts west avoiding brush.  Then follow a well-established (2023) cairned and log trail (logs bolted to rock to form bridges) to the west.  Circumvent both lower and upper Lost Towers.  There will be bolted routes on your left.  Continue along the base of the walls to a low angled portion of slick rock.  Scramble up it to a vista, then turn left along the west face of upper Lost Tower where you can now get a glimpse of Hawk Pinnacle deep in the canyon as well as the popular route Forest Lawn on the east face of Bastion Towers directly to the west.  Stay in the gully heading southwest and scramble up and right at the dead end to the trail that travels south from Forest Lawn.  Continue scrambling south through boulders and trees until you can slip down below the east face of Hawk Pinnacle at a left fork.  Half Ass is the obvious off-width at the northwest end of Upper Lost Tower.

Route Descriptions Listed Left to Right as You Face this West Facing Wall

Half Ass- 125’-5.10****/ This is the obvious OW at the north end of the west face of Upper Lost Tower located above the entrance to Hawk Pinnacle.  Chimney or stem up the start to a hand jam.  Continue up several meters below grade until it widens.  From there it is sustained wide with occasional help/rests on the face to the right. The route reaches its own fixed rap.  You might make it to the ground with a 60m but it is close.  You rap straight down out climbers right, next to a tree.  Single from #.75 to #6.  Doubles #4-#6.  Route receives decent mid am sun to all afternoon sun.   Dow

Have You Seen Me- 5.11-/

Hello There Corner- 5.10+PG/

Regular Route- 200’-5.7/ The local guide calls this route two pitches, but it is easily done in one.  From Half Ass, circumvent south to almost the southern arete of Upper Lost Tower.  Head up the arete and traverse back left and up to the broad shoulder.  Clip a bolt on the next wall before stemming across and finishing at the fixed rap above Half Ass.  This route is recommended in the local guide, but I am not sure why.  It is mostly a scramble below grade.  Single to #3.  70m rope for the rap.  Dow