Illiniza Norte (Iliniza Norte) Climber's Log
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Date Climbed: Nov 28, 2011
|Spent the night at La Llovizna... great price on lodging but dinner was a bit steep. Our organization required us to get a guide for this trip so he met us at the hostal in the morning - at least transportation was included. We began at La Virgencita as clouds began rolling in. We decided going up and down the direct route because the guide thought it safer with my friend´s experience. The steep sandy section is brutal! By the time we got to rock, it began hailing a little bit...and this quickly turned into large hail, and thunder began rolling in around us. We hurried up the scrambling section on wet rock as the thunder got closer and closer, then saw the summit cross with immense relief. We began descending a minute later on extra slippy rock covered in a layer of snow...sure made things really interesting. This was a pretty exciting summit for us with such crazy weather.|
|Posted Nov 30, 2011 11:45 am|
|madclimber||Ruta Normal |
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2008
|Easy day climb|
|Posted Nov 2, 2011 8:43 pm|
Date Climbed: Dec 5, 2010
|Will definitely hit Iliniza Sur the next time I'm there, probably hit Norte again as we had no view from the summit...good aclimatization peak for Cotopaxi and Chimborazo.|
|Posted Oct 23, 2011 9:45 pm|
|karore||Beautiful Climb |
Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2010
|It was beautiful day I really enjoyed the climb and the views were fantastic|
|Posted Oct 8, 2011 11:39 am|
|Boriss Andean||I was too slow! |
Date Climbed: May 21, 2011
|Wow!, it’s been more than 2 months since I climbed Illiniza Norte for last time. Despite being rock climbing at low altitudes (Quito, 9,300 ft.) and running my personal half Marathons every weekend I felt completely out of shape and thought I could perform better, a bit of disappointment. |
Anyway, it took me exactly one hour to get to the summit (5,126 m / 16,818 ft.) from the refuge. I climbed it in one day leaving early from Quito.
Perfect weather. Sunny and not windy at all. I found the rocks to be loose, actually very loose. Probably because the last climbing parties that tried to climb the mountain during the last couple months couldn’t find the right path to the summit which was fully covered by snow by then, knocking rocks here and there. I still found a snowy/icy traverse below the summit, but easy to negotiate with caution.
Great to be back in the mountains after this long downtime. I know I'll say the same about home in a few months :D.
|Posted May 23, 2011 3:14 pm|
|SenadR||Nice scrambling |
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2011
|Nice climb prior to Cotopaxi.|
|Posted Jan 29, 2011 7:49 pm|
|Went to the Illnizas as prep for Cotopaxi and Chimbo|
|Posted Jan 29, 2011 2:30 am|
|tmfaust21||Snow on Norte? |
Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2011
|All the climbing book say there isn't snow on Norte. They may be right most of the time but there was quite a bit when I tried it. Only made it to the Paso de la Muerte and had to turn around cause I didn't bring an ice axe, crampons, or rope (and I only had 1.5 hrs to get back to the parking lot to meet my ride, made it down though)|
|Posted Jan 27, 2011 6:56 pm|
|Zyta||normal route |
Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2010
|windy and rainy weather, after drinking tea in refuge i got serious stomach illness, but I made it to the top.|
|Posted Jan 26, 2011 12:42 pm|
|Inday||Mal Suerte |
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2011
|Parofes and I made a good effort, but he got turned back by the risk of snow, ice, and rock falls as he described. It should be noted that the ridge had fresh snow and ice, making the Paso del Muerte pretty dangerous. I summited after waiting for the other bumbeling crew to get out of my way. I am not sure what the heck they were up to, putting protection in on the descent to the far right of the Paso del Muerte, but I guess better safe than sorry...|
|Posted Jan 19, 2011 10:11 am|
|Boriss Andean||Re: Mal Suerte|
|Congratulations on reaching the summit.|
Im sorry the "bumbeling crew" got on your way during your ascent. But I know they are very well trainned in taking care of their clients.
I know it could be irritating when we have to wait in line for our turn or yield to another party while they are trying to lower down one of their clients, who wasn't feeling comfy down-climbing "La Canaleta" or "Paso de La Muerte". But we always need to be patience and just wait in line.
Rushing somebody up through expossed passes could cause fatal accidents sometimes. That's why, we as guides need to place sometimes protection and set up anchors in order to take care of the people we are guiding to.
You are right, it's better to be safe than sorry.
My friends (guides) were placing protection in order to avoid a fatal accident, like the one that occured last Friday (Jan.28.2011) in the very same place described by you above.
Nothing personal guys, I met with you'all a couple times up in Cotopaxi and you seem nice and fun folks to hang out with. Just wanted to let you know why this "bumbeling crews" set up these protections up high.
In the other hand, maybe the guides weren't clear enough, unpolite or sounded rude. They also should find a way of yielding other climbers up or down. Kind of hard in a bottleneck, though.
|Posted Jan 30, 2011 7:18 pm|
|Inday||Re: Mal Suerte|
|Very true man, and a very appropriate reminder. What I meant by bumbeling was the manner by which they were placing the protection: giant swings of the ice axe, throwing snow and ice all over the place that went on to slide down over a face, raining down on a the ascent line. If they had gone further out right to set the pro, more directly above their descent line, this all may have turned out differently.|
But I agree Boris. As guides, they made a safety call, and that is paramount over a summit push. Thanks for the re-framing of the issue.
|Posted Feb 20, 2011 12:54 am|
|PAROFES||Another try but NO again|
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2011
|Me and Gavin all the way up. Good weather, i was a little bit slow yet cuz of the damn cold i got, throat still infected...|
We passed thru Paso de La Muerte, crossed the snowed (that was supposed to be rocky) field, really dangerous...the fresh snow was going down with me...crazy.
When i got to the canaleta, 4 or 5 minutes after Gavin, there was a 5 person team coming down. So i waited. It wasnt really necessary at THAT place, but they were doing protections...so i waited, waited...i couldnt go up bcuz with their down climbing going on, some rocks and ice and snow were falling down every second, and after 30 or 35 minutes waiting (incredible!) the weather changed. BADLY. Had to come back right away. Gavin summited Norte and i didnt again...
Too bad for me...i blame that group!
|Posted Jan 18, 2011 7:13 pm|
|Boriss Andean||Re: Another try but NO again|
|Well, now you know, those protections were necessary Paulo. Better safe than sorry.|
Just in case somebody falls.
|Posted Jan 30, 2011 7:25 pm|
Date Climbed: Jan 7, 2011
At the refuge there was some points with 1m of deep snow.
Near the summit there was like 1,2 m of fresh deep snow at some 50 or 55 degrees, too dangerous to insist. Plus, a huge storm came by and everybody went down fast.
Too bad...nobody is reaching its summit so far. The weather here is really crazy...
Gave up 75m below the summit.
|Posted Jan 8, 2011 6:02 pm|
|centrifuge||Perfect Weather! |
Date Climbed: Dec 13, 2010
|Climbed it in 2 days, using the hut as an acclimation night. Freddy, the hut guardian was amazingly friendly, and we had the hut to ourselves. The route was a blast with lots of snow on the pass up high adding some extra spice to the last bit. We had views every direction, the best climbing weather of our trip!|
|Posted Dec 25, 2010 10:25 am|
|rgg||Dusted with snow |
Date Climbed: Dec 8, 2010
|Climbed with Rolando as guide.|
At the refuge, there was just a little bit of snow, but near the summit it got interesting. The gully just before the summit was filled with powder. However, it was just that, so I wiped it away where I needed to.
Unfortunately, no views from the top.
|Posted Dec 13, 2010 5:51 pm|
|Herb||Normal route (La Virgen - Refugio de los Illinizas - Summit) |
Date Climbed: Nov 10, 2010
|Started from our tents slightly above "La Virgen", stopped by at the refuge for a tea and continued to the summit.|
Unfortunately we had almost no view due to clouds, fog and a little rain along the route. Anyway it was a nice climb and it was the first 5.000m peak for my girlfriend.
Very fast descent via the loose scree.
|Posted Nov 23, 2010 10:57 am|
|Boriss Andean||Fast climb! |
Date Climbed: Oct 23, 2010
|Climbed with 4 guys from Finland. Left the refuge at 6:00 am and got to the summit (5,126 m / 16,818 ft) at 7:45 am.|
Back at the refuge at 9:15 am. Excellent weather!
|Posted Oct 23, 2010 3:46 pm|
|Boriss Andean||Windy ridge. |
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2010
|Climbed With Susi (ECU) and Jaime (ECU). Very windy on the southeastern ridge. It got better as we climbed higher to the top.|
It cleared off once we got to the summit (5,126 m / 16,818 ft). Very nice views of the lower peaks and surroundings.
Susi needed crampons on the way up. Total climbing time: 2:15 hours.
|Posted Aug 9, 2010 11:31 am|