Rating the Route (By Hiking Standards)
The grading system for hiking and scrambling routes is here.
0. General: From cca 800m to 2350m, exposition N and E. Marked path, on the upper part a medium hard ferrata. Gear: Good shoes, eventually ferrata equipment (if crowdy). Great tour!
1. Effort: cca 1550m. From Logarska dolina (valley) 4h, from Koca pod Ojstrico (hut) 3h.
2. Power: 3 - Medium
3. Psyche: 4 - Hard
4. Orientation: 2 - Easy.
As described on the main page you ascend from Logarska dolina (valley) to Koca pod Ojstrico (hut), 1208m. 1h.
Route DescriptionFrom the hut the joint path for both north ascents on Ojstrica goes first towards SE up the forrest, then towards S, crossing through a forrest the western slopes of Kroficka. On the altitude of 1480m, 30min from the hut, the two ascents separate. Our Kopinsek route is harder and goes left.
We are still ascending through light larch woods, more and more approaching the fascinating vertical north wall of Ojstrica. Even ferrata will not go directly over it, so the path is heading in a SE direction, in many turns up to Skrbina, 1800m, the distinct notch between Ojstrica and Kroficka.
On Skrbina the view into Robanov kot (valley) opens and our path switches into the eastern face of Ojstrica. First it crosses comfortably the grassy slopes above the notch, but soon a steep rocky barrier stops us. Here the real ferrata begins. We overcome the vertical step with a help of many hooks, pegs and steel ropes, reach a side ridge and go on the other side of it still steeply up. This part is a bit exposed, but the route is protected well.
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The upper part of the eastern slope is a bit less steep, so a tiny path can again be formed, bringing us in some turns and over ledges and steps just on the NE main ridge of Ojstrica. Again we look into the north wall, now already having quite an altitude. Following the NE ridge is again exposed and steep, through a crack we finally reach the place on the ridge, where the ferrata quits following it.
Strangely, now the route crosses the whole northern face of Ojstrica. It's true, here the wall has a relatively comfortable ledge, but the feeling is very fine. Some 150m below the summit we go horizontally all the way to the NW ridge, and only there the ferrata turns up again. Over the last steep rocky sections we finally reach the summit.
It's best to descend over the Skarje notch (see the route description).