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Ojstrica
Mountain/Rock

Ojstrica

 
Ojstrica

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Kamnik Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.36340°N / 14.63885°E

Object Title: Ojstrica

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7709 ft / 2350 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Jul 5, 2004 / Oct 27, 2013

Object ID: 152784

Hits: 13304 

Page Score: 92.04%  - 37 Votes 

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In Slovenian language č, š and ž are pronounced like ch, sh, and zh.

Overview

 
Krizevnik summit view
From Križevnik - the east face of Ojstrica
 
Ojstrica (2350 m)
Davor - From Okrešelj

The central part of Kamnik Alps ends on its eastern side with a beautiful high mountain, one of the most impressive in the whole group. Also its name - Ojstrica = Sharp Peak - suggests this. The most impressive side of Ojstrica is its north wall (Logarska dolina is more tha 1500m below the summit). It is more than 500m high and offers many beautiful climbing routes. Also high is Ojstrica's east face. From the summit and from a long SE ridge, a 700m high, steep rocky face is falling down to Robanov kot valley. Quite steep are also the south slope, rising above the broad, green meadow of Korošica, 1800m, and the south-west slope, over which the easyest ascent goes.

The mountain has three distinctive ridges - the west ridge goes towards Škarje notch, 2141m and further to Planjava summit, 2394m. It is a part of the main Kamnik Alps ridge. From the summit towards the north-east a sharp ridge goes down to Škrbina notch, 1800m, which divides Ojstrica from the neighbouring summit of Krofička, 2083m. Finally the south-east ridge goes down from the summit of Ojstrica to the head of Mala Ojstrica (Small Ojstrica), 2017m and further down to the plateau of Dleskovška planota. Perhaps also the short south ridge should be mentioned. It rises just above Kocbekov dom on Korošica meadow and supposedly offers also an easy climb on top.

In the short summit ridge of Ojstrica there are two peaks, higher is the western one.

Being so attractive, the summit keeps a detailed history of ascents. In 1823 E. Joanelli reached the summit, doing his job as geomether. In 1894 Fran Kocbek climbed the summit by the SE ridge, which is now named by him.

And there's one more attraction. In the middle of the north wall, some 250 meters high, there's the entry into so calles Ogrinova luknja - Ogrin's hole. The cave is very narrow to enter and in 2007 the first 60 meters were explored. The continuation is still unknown.

Views on Ojstrica

As a sharp, white limestone peak, Ojstrica is beautiful from any side. Even if being a ridge mountain, it raises high enough to make an impression on an observer, almost regardless of a standpoint. Still, some views are excelling others.

 
Ojstrica (the sharp peak on...
Above Logarska dolina

From Logarska Dolina


From the beginning of Logarska Dolina, we see the north wall of Ojstrica in a perfect harmony. This is the famous view from Sestre Logar meadow, where the sharp peak of Ojstrica is complementary to the powerful, broad massif of the neighbouring Planjava.

 
Robanov kot. Here, by Roban...
Robanov kot

From Robanov Kot


Whoever comes into the kingdom of Roban's farm, will be surprised by a beautiful view on a sharp mountain, rising some 1700 meters higher, at the end of the valley. That is Ojstrica, showing its sharp peak above a high ridge.

 
Ojstrica (2.350 mtrs)
Branko - Above Korošica

From Dleskovška Planota


The view from the south is a bit less impressive, because the altitude difference to the summit is not so big. But the sharp, double-peak summit is seen from everywhere, also far from the distance. The more we approach Korošica meadow, the clearer are the features of Ojstrica's south face.

 
Ojstrica on the right with...
Rok Ajdnik - from the W

From the West


Also from the highest part of Kamnik & Savinja Alps, the view on Ojstrica is fine. Even if lower, it concludes nicely with its sharpness the highest part of the massif.

Summit Views

 
Ojstrica summit view
Towards the north-west
 
The view from Ojstrica summit
Branko - Towards the west

Because of its position Ojstrica offers a great panorama. Towards the south the green meadow of Korošica, beyond it the broad carst plateau of Dleskovška planota and further the hilly rest of Slovenia. Towards east the neighbouring mountains of Kamnik Alps, deep down the green valley of Robanov kot, in the distance forehills. On north most impressive is the view deep down into green Logarska dolina (valley). Beyond hilly landscape one can see the Gurktal Alps and groups east of them. And towards west all the big summits of Kamnik Alps can be seen, in distance Julian Alps and in a clear day one can see as far as to Grossglockner.

The Diversity of Nature Around Ojstrica

Ojstrica stands in the middle of high alpine world, which is very diverse. On north and east we have two of the most beautiful valleys of Kamnik Alps: Logarska dolina (often called also the Gavarnie of Kamnik Alps) and Robanov kot. Broad alpine meadows, high vertical walls, unspoiled nature, waterfalls in Logarska dolina, these are only a few of highlights. On south there is a high carst plateau of Dleskovska planota. Covered with pine bushes, a few alpine meadows, some rocky summits peeking out. The rocky part of main Kamnik Alps ridge is also impressive - high walls above Logarska dolina, some of them with a healthy, solid rock, appropriate also for hard climbs. And a special pearl is a broad flat meadow of Korošica.

Getting There

 
Looking West From Robanov Kot
hunkan - Robanov kot

For a broader overview see the Kamnik Alps GROUP page!

1. From the south-west. The trailhead is on the road into Kamniška Bistrica (valley), 1km before the hut and the end parking place, 571m, from where we reach Korošica hut through the valley of Kamniška Bela and Presedljaj (saddle, 1613m). From the road to hut 4,5h.

2. From the east and south-east. By car we can reach Dleskovška planota (plateau). In Podvolovljek valley we take a decent macadam road, which brings us to Planina Ravne and the altitude of 1500m. From the end parking place Korosica hut (or Sedelce (saddle) for the SE ridge ascent) can be reached in 2h 30min (2h 15min). The other starting point can be the end of road below Planina Podvežak, 1400m, some 500m before reaching a hunters hut.

3. From the north-east. We can drive into the beautiful Robanov kot (valley) only to the farm of Roban. From there to Korošica hut you have then 4h (to Sedelce 3h 45min).

4. From the north. The trailhead is at 835m in the beautiful Logarska dolina (valley) by the mountain hut.

Routes Overview

 
A map of Ojstrica, its huts...
Marked routes on Ojstrica
 
After crossing some 150m...
On Kopinšek route - crossing above the N wall

Marked hiking routes & ferrattas


The numbers below refer to the map above.

If you are arriving from the south or south-east, you will certainly reach Korošica meadow, where Kocbekov dom (hut) stands. For detailed descriptions of Korošica approaches, see the page of Kocbekov dom.

Being on Korošica, you can do an ascent by the SW slope, or from Sedelce (a grassy saddle, 50 meters above Korošica), you can ascend by the SE ridge. Both approaches can be combined into a beautiful round tour.

1. From Korošica hut - south slope


Not difficult, just on few places steep walk-up. 1h 30min. In good conditions it is also appropriate for skiing. For the whole S ascent from Kamniška Bela see the route description.

2. South-east ridge


Marked route starts on Sedelce (saddle), 1900m. This can be reached from Korošica (15min), or from any of the paths which lead to Korošica from the east and south-east (from Robanov kot valley or from Dleskovška planota plateau). The ridge is marked, on the upper part scramble, also protected on some places - medium hard. 1h 15min from the saddle. For the whole ascent from Robanov kot, see this route description. For the whole description of the paths from S and SE, see the approaches to Kocbekov dom.

3. From Škarje notch


If we come from the west, from the neighbouring Planjava (2394m), or from Kamniško sedlo (saddle), we can follow the main ridge of Kamnik Alps, reach Škarje notch, 2141m and ascend from there the summit. From Škarje 1h. For the whole description see this page (approach #6).

4. From the north, over Škarje notch


Reaching from Logarska dolina, 800m to Koča pod Ojstrico (hut, 1208m), we have two options to continue. The west detour of Ojstrica north wall goes over Škarje notch. Medium difficulty, on some places steep and also protected. A long ascent, from Logarska dolina (valley) 4:30h, from the hut 3:30h. Here is route description.

5. From the north, Kopinškova pot (Kopinšek Route)


From Logarska dolina, 800m to Koča pod Ojstrico (hut, 1208m), then east of the north wall to Škrbina (notch), 1800m, into the east face and over it on the NE ridge, across the upper part of north face to the NW ridge and to the top. Very nice ferrata (above the Skrbina notch), medium hard and exposed. A long ascent, from Logarska dolina (valley) 4h, from the hut 3h. All in all perhaps the most beautiful route of this type (ferrata) in Kamnik & Savinja / Steiner Alps. See also the route description.

 
The North wall of Ojstrica is...
The North wall

Climbing Routes in the North Wall


  • Herletova smer, V+/ III - IV, 450m, 11.-12. August, 1941.

  • Ogrin-Omerza, V-/IV, 450m, 1931.
        Borut Kantušer: "Interesting route with a comfortable access, which nicely respects the twists and turns of this beautiful wall."

  • Leva smer (The left route), IV+/III-IV, 400m,

  • Sanje Delfina (The dreams of a dolphin), VII, 400m,

  • Črna zavesa (The black curtain), VII+/V, 450m,

  • Izziv (The challenge), VIII/A0, 450m,

  • Zmaj (The dragon),V.

    Red Tape

    There are no limitations. The mountain is in the middle of a parc area. For the road into Logarska dolina you must pay toll.

    When To Climb

    Click for Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana, Slovenia ForecastSummer and autumn (best months are usually July - October).
    Spring for tour skiing (Usually February - May).
    Weather: see the official page for Slovenia here or Wunderground (link on the left).
     
    Ojstrica
    Ojstrica in winter - from the SE (close-up)

    Camping

    There are several good mountain huts around Ojstrica:

  • Kocbekov dom na Korošici, 1808m, (03) 4924850, (050)615625 and (031)749811, Milan Kozelj.

  • Dom v Logarski dolini, 837m, 03 / 5847006, (031) 269 785,

  • Planinska koča pod Ojstrico (na Klemenči jami), 1208m, (041) 570-231 and (041)417-951,

  • Kamniška koča na Kamniškem sedlu, 1864m, 01 / 8391345, (050) 611367,

  • Dom v Kamniski Bistrici, 600m, (01) 8325544,

    Your Help Needed

  • Can you describe any other North wall climb?

  • Has anybody climbed the top by the South ridge?

  • Are there any routes in the North-West face?

  • How is the West ridge - from Škarje directly on top?

  • True winter pictures are badly missing.

  • Has anybody done the skiing from top of Ojstrica?

  • An illustrative photo of the North wall from across Logarska dolina would be fine.
  • Images