Welcome to SP!  -
Ojstrica south ascent
Route

Ojstrica south ascent

 
Ojstrica south ascent

Page Type: Route

Location: Kamnik Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35792°N / 14.63641°E

Object Title: Ojstrica south ascent

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: walk-up

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Jul 6, 2004 / Sep 27, 2009

Object ID: 161430

Hits: 2541 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Approach

 
Ojstrica
Ojstrica from the south, from Velika Planina

The trailhead is in Kamniska Bistrica valley, 1 km before the big parking place at the mountain hut. We enter the Kamniska bela valley where the main road crosses the creek, which has at this point a nice waterfall. The altitude is only 571m.

Even more nice is the gorge of Kamniska Bistrice some 200m towards north, where you can admire also a natural stone bridge. The place is called Predoselj.

Route Description

 
A map of Ojstrica, its huts...
Ojstrica and its routes

A comfortable path leads into Kamniska Bela in the NE direction. Close to the point, where the path starts to climb steeper, we can also visit a nice waterfall, called Orglice (if the creek has enough water). Our path goes in many turns upwards, allways in the NE direction, until it reaches the Presedljaj (saddle), 1613m. Till here 2.5 to 3 hours.

On the other side of the mountain ridge our path now goes more in a north direction. We move high above the valley of Lucka Bela, ascending only moderately, until we reach the Prag (saddle), 1910m. From there we descend 100m on a broad green Korosica plateau, where the hut stands.

From the Kocbek hut on Korosica meadow, 1808m, we start ascending on a north, north-west direction, first through carst terrain, covered with pine bushes, later over grassy slopes. We allways keep left of the not very distinctive south ridge of Ojstrica (the ascent over the S ridge is an easy climb, UIAA I.-II.). Soon we approach a more steep terrain under the Ojstrica west ridge, the path smoothly bends right up and brings us over a few summit rocks to the summit.

From Korosica hut 1.5 hours, from Kamniska Bistrica valley (road) 5.5 hours.

We usually descend by the same route. The alternative is a non-marked descent over Sraj pesek (see below), which quite some orientation and easy climbing downwards. In recent years the path is washed away in a steep gully. There you might need a rope and belaying to get safely down.

This descent is not recommendable for hikers who have not experienced the ascent (difficult orientation in the upper part due to recent land slides /Sept 2007). Bolted rappel belays are now in place at the crux.

Descending Over Sraj Pesek

For experienced mountaineers a shorter, but harder descent over Sraj pesek can be recommended (not on the map above!).

From Kocbek hut on Korosica meadow we go in south-west direction, over nice alpine meadows, called Petkove njive. We can follow a path, which is not marked (don't follow the marked path, which goes westwards to Kamnisko sedlo!). Soon the direction becomes south, we allways go below the vertical western walls of Lucki Dedec, 2023m, Vrsici, 1980m and Vezica, 1965m. These walls offer very nice rock climbs (also hard ones)! Below Vezica a long and fine scree (Šraj pesek) helps us to lose altitude quickly. It goes like skiing until the scree and the path ends. We can only hardly follow the trails, but our direction is allways directly down (southwards). When we reach a harder rocky step (cca 1100m), we can either continue climbing down (I.-II. degree) by a steep ravine (in the middle of which there are also some iron pegs, not helping or protecting us much), or keep left through steep woods (difficult orientation), trying to reach the marked path. The more we lose altitude, the easier passages and finally we reach the bottom of Kamniska Bela valley. In the rocky gully nowadays the route is washed away and you might need a rope to descend down safely.

If everything goes fine, we can be down in Kamniska Bistrica valley in some 2.5 to 3 hours (the usual descent would take us at least 3 hours).

Essential Gear

Good shoes, perhaps sticks.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

OjstricaLate autumn view on Ojstrica...Looking back towards KoroŇ°ica meadowAscent on Ojstrica mountain...Ojstrica summit, rising above...A map of Ojstrica, its huts...