OverviewThe mountain has a fine steep sweep of rock, 1000m high, on it's E face, the one most easily seen from Machhermo village, in the Gokyo Valley. The SE ridge is protected by steep towers, with good rock initially, though the rock seems to deteriorate further up. The NE face would be a hard but fine route to try, though access to the hanging glacier below the face is exposed to serac fall. The S face is just rotten rock and piles of stones. The 'Normal' route (SW ridge) is accessed via the SE col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Mostly 55°-60° snow and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Nanche Bazaar). With good altitude preparation, possible in two long days from Machhermo.
Getting ThereLukla - Namche Bazaar - Dole - Machhermo - occasional trails up steepening valley to NW of Machhermo to foot of E face
Red TapeTrekking Peak Fee (500USD in 2002) as newly opened summit plus the standard trekking permit. No other constraints (no liaison officer etc.)
When To ClimbFairly big exposure to late Monsoon clouds - don't go too early on tha Autumn, or too late in Spring
CampingYes, but no huts above Machhermo