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The next step up beyond hiking is to tackle one of the 18 mountains designated as trekking peaks. The category was created by the Nepal Mountaineering association as an intermediate stage between hiking and all-out mountaineering. They are often close to major peaks, with astounding views from their summits. Climbing them gives you the exhilaration of pitting yourself against Himalayan conditions and altitudes. It is essential to note that these are still considerable mountains, taller than almost anything in North America or Europe. Don’t be fooled by the name ‘trekking peak’ - most classic routes require a little scrambling over snow and ice so make sure you are familiar with the use of crampons and ice axes. The peaks also have plenty of potential for more experienced Alpinists looking for tougher challenges. The north face of Cholatse for example is a serious undertaking not to be taken lightly.
Regulations
Regulations pertaining to trekking peaks are relatively simple. A permit is required which is issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association on payment of the royalty fee. This fee depends on whether the peak is in group A or group B. Group B consists of the original 18 trekking peaks and Group A consisits of a further 15 trekking peaks introduced in 2002, some of which shouldn't really be called trekking peaks because they require a solid base of mountaining skills. Cholatse for example was downgraded from full expediton status. The permit simply allows you to climb the mountain and other bureaucracies such as perchase of trekking permits are still applicable.
Fee structure for group "A" NMA peaks
Royalty for up to seven members: US $ 500
Royalty for each additional member up to 12 persons: US $ 100
Fee structure for group "B" NMA peaks
Royalty for 1-4 members: US $ 350
Royalty for 5-8 members: US $ 350 + US $ 40 per person
Royalty for 9-12 members: US $ 510 + US $ 25 per person
Note : Maximum number of members in one team is 12
The Nepal Mountaineering Association have produced a small booklet containing the regulations governing the ascent of trekking peaks. There are certain requirements governing trekking peaks, such as the need for a registered sirdar and for a recognized agency to get your peak permit.
An amount of $250 must be deposited with NMA as garbage deposit to get a permit. This is refunded on the basis of a satisfactory report jointly signed by the concerned team leader, sirdar and climber.
One advantage of Nepal is that mountaineering gear is readily available in Kathmandu - but not as cheaply as it used to be! The Maoist troubles are a possible deterrent to climbing in Nepal. However in general the vital importance of tourism to Nepal is well-understood, and mountaineers are not interfered with, although there have also been a few stories of money being demanded or cameras taken. The situation varies from month to month so try to get up-to-date information before you go.
Climbing Grade
Listed peaks are graded using the Alpine Grade system. The overall seriousness of the complete route based on all factors of the final approach, ascent, and descent—including length, altitude, danger, commitment, and technical difficulty. This system originated with UIAA Roman numerals; it is now generally seen with French letters and is increasingly being used worldwide. Grades described below are for the 'classic' route ascent lines. Alternative routes will obviously be of a higher grade.
F: Facile/easy. Rock scrambling or easy snow slopes; some glacier travel; often climbed ropeless except on glaciers.
PD: Peu Difficile/a little difficult. Some technical climbing and complicated glaciers.
AD: Assez Difficile/fairly hard. Steep climbing or long snow/ice slopes above 50º; for experienced alpine climbers only.
The original 'B' group trekking peaks are rated no more than Alpine grade AD. Many of the easier peaks also have harder routes that are not listed here. Some of the newly introduced 'A' group peaks are technically harder and are comparable in grade to many "expediton peaks"
I have divided peaks in to their relevant geographical areas and then listed them in order of height.
Annapurna Himal
| Peak | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Alpine Grade | Latitude | Longitude | First Ascent | Royalty Group |
| Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) | 6501 | 21329 | AD | 28o34'48" | 83o52'48" | 1957 | B |
| Hiuchuli | 6441 | 21132 | PD | 28o31'00" | 83o53'00" | 1971 | B |
| Thorong Ri (Khatung Kang Fore) | 6144 | 20157 | PD | 28°46'57"N | 83°55'40"E | ? | N/A |
| Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) | 5663 | 18579 | PD/AD | 28°33'44"N; | 83°53'23"E | 1964 | B |
| Mardi Harmal | 5587 | 18330 | F | 28°28'31"N | 83°55'41"E | 1961 | B |
Gaurishankar Himal
| Peak: | Cherigo |
| Height (m): | 6257 |
| Height (ft): | 20528 |
| Alpine Grade: | AD |
| Latitude: | 27°54'23"N |
| Longitude: | 86°24'48"E |
| First Ascent: | ? |
| Royalty Group: | A |
Kangchenjunga Himal
| Peak: | Boktoh |
| Height (m): | 6142 |
| Height (ft): | 20154 |
| Alpine Grade: | ? |
| Latitude: | 27o37'12" |
| Longitude: | 88o00'00" |
| First Ascent: | 1991 |
| Royalty Group: | A |
| Peak: | Peak 5950m |
| Height (m): | 5950 |
| Height (ft): | 19052 |
| Alpine Grade: | PD- |
| Latitude: | 27o80'28" |
| Longitude: | 88o11'33" |
| First Ascent: | ? |
| Royalty Group: | N/A |
Khumbu Himal
| Peak | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Alpine Grade | Latitude | Longitude | First Ascent | Royalty Group |
| Mera Peak | 6476 | 21247 | PD | 27°42'33"N | 86°52'06"E | 1953 | B |
| Cholatse | 6440 | 21128 | ? | 27°55'11"N | 86°45'56"E | 1982 | A |
| Kusum Kangguru | 6367 | 20889 | ? | 27°43'51"N | 86°47'21"E | 1979 | B |
| Imja Tse (Island Peak) | 6183 | 20285 | PD/PD+ | 27°55'12"N | 86°56'5"E | 1953 | B |
| Lobuche East / Lobuje East | 6119 | 20075 | PD+ | 27°57'32"N | 86°47'27"E | 1984 | B |
| Lobuche West / Lobuje West | 6145 | 20160 | ? | 27°58'9"N | 86°46'57"E | ? | B |
| Kongde Ri (Kwangde Ri) | 6011 | 20298 | AD | 27°47'36"N | 86°38'32"E | 1975 | B |
| Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak) | 5849 | 19189 | ? | 27°56'39"N | 86°50'21"E | 1975 | B |
| Pokhalde | 5806 | 19049 | PD/PD+ | 27°55'30"N | 86°50'04"E | 1953 | B |
| Chhukung Ri | 5559 | 18238 | F | 27°55'32"N | 86°52'45"E | ? | A |
Langtang Himal
| Peak | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Alpine Grade | Latitude | Longitude | First Ascent | Royalty Group |
| Yubra Himal | 6035 | 19800 | ? | 28°6'27"N | 85°34'05"E | ? | A |
| Paldor Peak | 5896 | 19344 | ? | 28o16'43" | 85o11'02" | 1949 | B |
| Gamja La Chuli (Naya Kanga) | 5846 | 19181 | PD | 28o09'00" | 85o35'24" | 1986 | B |
| Yala | 5500 | 18044 | F | 28°14'23"N | 85°37'34"E | ? | A |
Jugal Himal
| Peak: | Langsisa Ri |
| Height (m): | 6427 |
| Height (ft): | 21085 |
| Alpine Grade: | ? |
| Latitude: | 28o12'36" |
| Longitude: | 85o42'36" |
| First Ascent: | 1982 |
| Royalty Group: | A |
Mahalangur Himal
| Peak | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Alpine Grade | Latitude | Longitude | First Ascent | Royalty Group |
| Ombigaichen | 6340 | 20800 | AD/D | 27o51'00" | 86o52'48" | 1960 | A |
| Pharilapcha (Machermo) | 6017 | 19740 | ? | 27°55'44"N | 86°40'51"E | 2003 | A |
| Kyajo Ri | 6186 | 20295 | D+ | 27°54'31"N | 86°40'14"E | 2002 | A |
| Nirekha | 6159 | 20206 | ? | 27°58'38"N | 86°45'48"E | ? | A |
| ABI | 6097 | 20003 | ? | 27°59'5"N | 86°43'9"E | ? | A |
Manang Himal
| Peak | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Alpine Grade | Latitude | Longitude | First Ascent | Royalty Group |
| Chuli East | 6584 | 21601 | PD+ | 28°44'9"N | 84°2'3"E | 1955 | B |
| Chulu West | 6441 | 21131 | PD+ | 28°44'37"N | 84°1'20"E | 1952 | B |
| Pisang | 6144 | 20157 | PD- | 28o38'24" | 84o11'24" | 1955 | B |
Rolwaling Himal
| Peak | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Alpine Grade | Latitude | Longitude | First Ascent | Royalty Group |
| Parchemuche / Pharchamo / Parchamo | 6187 | 20298 | PD | 27°50'11"N | 86°32'50"E | 1955 | B |
| Ramdung | 5950 | 19438 | PD | 27°49'7"N | 86°25'52"E | 1952 | B |
Manaslu Himal
Peak: Larkya PeakHeight: 6249m
Alpine Grade: ?
Latitude: 28°38'45"N
Longitude: 84°31'56"E
First Ascent: 1982
Royalty Group: A
Books
The Trekking Peaks of Nepal by Bill O'Connor ISBN: 0898866766Trekking and Climbing in Nepal by Steve Razetti ISBN: 0811729478
Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepalese Himalaya by Stan Armington ISBN: 1864502312
Trekking in the Everest Region by Jamie McGuiness ISBN: 1873756607
External Links
Nepal Mountaineering AssociationThe UIAA - Mountaineering in the Greater Ranges































