La Masino Direct
A sustained classic route on superb “Bavella” granite with some strenuous movements getting to the beautiful summit of Punta di l'Acellu. The climbing way is mainly inner, along chimneys and cracks. Equipped with spaced 8 mm. bolts.
From Bavella Pass mt. 1211 – parking – take GR20 path towards North West and leave it after 300 mt., heading towards right to rise along GR20 ”Alpine Variant” (yellow marks). The trail rises steeply towards Acellu Pass. Just before the pass leave the main trail and go down towards left along a rocky slope skirting SE face (45 minutes from Bavella Pass).
LA MASINO DIRECT REPORT F6a obbl. - French Scale
Summit altitude: m. 3838
Difficulty: TD, 6a max
Climbing length: 150 m.
Equipment: equipped (some bolts along the pitches, equipped belays)
Time required: 3 hours
Starting point: Col de Bavella
The starting point is situated on the right-hand side of the face, below a smooth slab (visible bolts) situated on the right of a chimney.
1 - Climb the slab, then a shallow corner leading to a stance below some “tafoni”. 6a.
2 - Towards right with a move below a roof to enter another shallow corner leading to easier rocks. Climb it towards left to a very good stance below a smooth chimney. 5c
3 - Up along the smooth chimney, ending into a narrowing. Climb it with an hard move; a dihedral crack and a slab lead to a stance below another chimney. 6a.
4 - Climb the chimney, then some tafoni to a clear and smooth crack-chimney. Climb it with some hard moves and belay inside the crack. 6a, A0.
5 - Go on into the crack-chimney, then towards right climb some thin cracks, a little overhang and another thin crack reaching a belay. 6a
6 – After some easy slabs climb a little wall with “tafoni” leading to the summit. 4a. Cairns.
Descent: from the summit head to North towards Second Tower (Punta di l’Ariettu), finding some abseils anchors. Stop the abseil after 25 mt., when you’re getting on the first ledge. Walking along the ledge towards right – facing out – reach a narrow gully which goes down at the bottom of the cliff.
Essential gearRope 2 x 50, helmet, friends, ten express.
HistoryHistoric route realized in 1962 by M. Controux and G. Vuilliez, who left the route nameless. At present the route rises along the straight variants realized during an ENSA stage by the Chamonix guide and teacher Yvon Masino; he died at Pic du Midi d’Ossau and the route has his name in memory.
Climate and nature
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.
Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
When to climbBest period goes from last April to middle October.
Where to stayCOL DE BAVELLA
-Auberge and Gite d'Etape du Col de Bavella
AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
-Hotel and Gite d’Etape Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
– Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
- Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere (Zonza)
Guidebooks and maps
“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella by Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
Map: IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”