Welcome to SP!  -
Punta di l'Acellu
Mountain/Rock

Punta di l'Acellu

 
Punta di l\'Acellu

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Corsica, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 41.79774°N / 9.21487°E

Object Title: Punta di l'Acellu

County: Bavella, Bavedda

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 5210 ft / 1588 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Jul 7, 2011 / Mar 3, 2016

Object ID: 727054

Hits: 4683 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Geographical classification: Corsica - Corse > Bavella Massif > Punta di l'Acellu



Punta di l'Acellu 1588 m



The wilderness surrounded by a vivid blue sea, the rough granite with incredible “tafoni”, the forest of pino laricio: the superb beauty of the Bavella landscape, regarded by many people as the most astonishing amongst the Mediterranean countries, is out of discussion. The admittance to the wild and magnificent stone’s microcosm of Bavella, quite a wonderful natural museum, is Col de Bavella, dominated by the stunning Aiguilles de Bavella, erected above the pine forest and with an irresistible attraction for climbers. Punta di l’Acellu – Bird's Peak – is one of these "aiguilles", a fine tower rising above the Bavella Col, quite obvious from the pass and also named First Tower, the Southernmost and the first one amongst Aiguilles de Bavella. In reason of its closeness to the Bavella Pass and the quality of the granite, Punta di l'Acellu is frequently climbed.

A crazy cloud over Punta di l'Acellu
A crazy cloud over Punta di l'Acellu"

Summit of Punta di l'Acellu
Summit of Punta di l'Acellu



The most interesting routes are East face routes and the super-classic Arete de Zonza, following the South ridge of Acellu. The name "Acellu" derives from an ancient popular saying, in accordance of which “only a bird could reach the summit”.

Acellu
Clouds' play amongst Acellu and Aiguilles de Bavella

Getting There

 
Punta Caletta map
 
 
Tafunata di Paliri seen from Aiguilles de Bavella
Bavella landscape
 
Light and shadows on Bavella Massif
Light and shadows on Bavella Massif



Access to the island


The magnificent island of Corsica, l'Ile de Beauté (the Island of Beauty) belonging to France but much closer to Italy, can be easily approached by plane (airports both in Bastia on the Eastern coast and Ajaccio on the Western coast)and by ferry-boat from Livorno and Savona italian ports. The most convenient destination in Corsica to visit the Bavella area, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Bastia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Bastia port if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.

Main entrance into Bavella group is Col de Bavella m. 1211.


Road approach to Col de Bavella

- From BASTIA (Corsica Eastern coast) follow the road RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, turn to right following D268 to Col de Bavella (km. 130 from Bastia).

- From AIACCIO (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow the road D268 to Col de Bavella.


Walking Approach

The starting point to reach the tower is Col de Bavella m. 1211. Wide parking area. It's possible to spend the night at the pass or getting there directly from Zonza, a small typical village situated in the South side of Col de Bavella (9 km. from the pass).

From Col de Bavella follow the GR20 “Alpine Variant” (yellow marks) rising steeply towards the Acellu Pass. Just before getting to the pass, leave the main trail (GR20 Alpine Variant) and turn to left, going down on a slope skirting the SE Face and then getting the bottom of the South Ridge (Arete de Zonza).

Routes overview

Punta di l'Acellu routes overview from left to right - French Scale

“Arête Integrale de Zonza” D, 5b 300 mt.

This route follow the long ridge facing Zonza and running on the left hand side of SE face. A great outing on a highly satisfactory route, the classic of classic in Bavella.


Agellucciu

“Quilici Route” D+ 100 mt.
“Precht Route” D

Punta di l'Acellu summit
Punta di l'Acellu summit"

Punta di l'Acellu
Punta di l'Acellu



Acellu South-East Face

“Belluno Route” TD, 6a 150 mt.
“Le Temps Peau Noir” TD+,6b 150 mt.
“La JPQ” TD+,6b 150 mt.
“Afanassief” ED, 6c 150 mt.
"La Masino Direct" TD, 6a 150 mt.
“I Brumi di l’Agellu” TD+,6b 150 mt.

The smooth chimney - La Masino
Smooth chimney on the ruote "Masino"
On Arête de Zonza, Punta di l'Acellu
Arête de Zonza
Abseiling Punta di L'Acellu
Rapping down Acellu



Acellu South-West Face

“Normal Route”

Descent from Punta di l'Acellu - From the summit head to NW (towards Punta di l'Ariettu, Tour II) following some cairns that lead to an anchor under an overhang. Rapping down about 25 meters, you will reach the first ledge. Walk along the ledge towards right – facing out – getting to a narrow gully which descends at foot of the tower, near Col de l'Acellu and GR20 Alpine Variant.

History

Punta di l’Acellu was first climbed in 1927 by the Belgian Van Hege-Solvay and Delwart Ganshof along the Etrier Route. The second ascent was realized the same year by an Austrian party (climbing the same route). The third ascent, 18 years later, was realized by Miss Ferrè de Peroux with the Chamonix alpine guides Arthur Ravanel and Alphonse Couttet.

Nature and climate

Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than the 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.

An ancient tree
Sunset from Col de Bavella
Stones



Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.

Red Tape

Bavella is really a fantastic world, a preserved milieu situated inside the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse - Parcu di Corsica. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to keep for the future this extraordinary environment.

Bavella, a wild nature
Bavella, a wild nature
Cyclamen born after the flood...(Bavella Massif)
Cyclamen born after the flood...
Pino Laricio tormented by the wind
Pino Laricio tormented by the wind

When to climb

Best season to climb in Aiguilles de Bavella Group goes from late April to middle October.

Meteo

METEO CORSE


Where to stay

COL DE BAVELLA

-Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape
AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA

-Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA

ZONZA

–Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
-Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere

Guidebooks and maps

 
Corsica road map
 

 
Bavedda (Corsica) Climbing, hiking and Canyoning Guidebook
 
“Bavedda – Aiguilles entre ciel et torrents: Escalade, Rando, Canyon” by Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici - FFME

“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella by Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher

“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau

Map IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”

Images