OverviewMaravigliosa + Classic Route Exit
The SE face of Tafunata di Paliri overlooks the bucolic natural setting of Refuge Paliri with the characteristic huge hole from side to side.
It's possible to climb this face by a fine combination of two routes. “Maravigliosa” is a pearl with pure “bavellian” orange granite, but the route ends without getting this panoramic summit. The second pitch is sustained on 6b/c; the second and the third pitch are well equipped, while some friends are necessary to climb the fourth pitch. After climbing “Maravigliosa”, it is very satisfactory to reach the summit following the Classic Route upper six pitches (not very equipped).
The magnificent island of Corsica, l'Ile de Beauté (the Island of Beauty) belonging to France but much closer to Italy, can be easily approached by plane (airports both in Bastia on the Eastern coast and Ajaccio on the Western coast)and by ferry-boat from Livorno and Savona italian ports. The most convenient destination in Corsica to visit the Bavella area, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Bastia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Bastia port if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.
The starting point to get Tafunata di Paliri is situated near the Gite d'Etape "du Col de Bavella".
From Auberge – Gite d’Etape “du Col de Bavella”, situated 500 mt. from Bavella Pass along NE side of D268 (Solenzara side), follow the forestal road starting behind the hut and leading to GR20 trail (red and white marks); the trail goes down reaching another forestal road crossing a stream. Follow it for a short distance (about 150 mt.), then turn to right following again GR20. The trail rises across a “pino laricio” forest and reachs Finosa Pass mt. 1195; from here the trail goes down to the beautiful Paliri Hut m. 1055 (water, guarded in summer). From the hut follow the trail to Normal Route (Via Ferrata) leading to South-East Face (10 minutes from the hut, 2 hours from the “Gite d’Etape”). When arriving below the obvious orange slab, leave the trail to Via Ferrata and turn to right to reach the slab.
MARAVIGLIOSA + CLASSIC ROUTE EXIT REPORT (French scale)
Summit altitude: 1312 mt.
TD+, F6c, F6a obbl.
Length: 250 mt.
“Maravigliosa “First ascent: Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau 1988
Approach starting: Gite d’Etape “du Col de Bavella
Huts: Refuge Paliri, Gite d’Etape “du Col de Bavella”, Gite d’Etape “Les Aiguilles de Bavella”
L1 – Starting point below a crack and an ilex. A 5c pitch a bit engaged (it’s possible the pitch now is equipped) leads to a stance below the steep slab.
L2 - Climb the hard thin crack crossing the orange and superb slab and leading to a small roof; climb the roof along its left edge. After the roof head towards right to a vague hollow - now climbing is a bit easier (6a, 6a+) – then traverse two meters towards right to get to the belay. 6b, 6c, then 6a.
L3 – From the belay traverse 4 mt. towards left, then climb a crack. After climbing an overhang, head to right reaching a ledge below a chimney-crack. Another fine pitch, 5c.
L4 – Easy rocks lead to the chimney crack. Climb it, 5c, not equipped.
L5 – A short abseil – or a short descent on 3a - leads to a rocky saddle where Classic Route and Normal Route pass.
L6 – From the rocky saddle - situated below Classic Route’s characteristic “Nose” - climb the wall straightly over the stance. 4a
L7/L8 - Other two pitches - 3a and 4b – with a chimney lead below the “Nose”.
L9 – Climb the impressively “tafonated” nose – this is a neologism, because I cant’ find a way to translate from the Corsican dialect into the English the words “tafoni”, “tafonato” – reaching the summital ridge. 5a.
L10/11 Last two pitches along the culminant ridge – by easy climb (some moves on 3 and 4) and walk – lead to the secondary summit and to the top. A surprising view over Tyrrenian Sea!!!
Descent - From the main summit the “Via Ferrata” starts, leading to the characteristic “eye”, a big hole across the face. Nearby the “eye”, the Normal Route’ ledge runs across the face from right to left, leading to the starting point.
Essential gearRope 2 x 50, helmet, 10 quickdraws, some friends and excentrics, some ribbons
Red TapeBavella Massif is a wonderful world, a well preserved environment, but delicate at the same time, situated inside the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse - Parcu di Corsica.
Free camping and bivouac are not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden.
Where to stay
- Refuge Paliri
Other accomodation on Col de Bavella and Zonza
Col de Bavella
Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape Auberge du Col de Bavella
Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
Gite d'Etape Les Aiguilles de Bavella
Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere
When to climbBest seasons to climb Tafunata di Paliri South Face are Spring and Fall.
GuideBooks and maps
“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella by Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
"Corse L'ile verticale" by Martail Lacroix - Pierre Sanchou
Map: IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”