Tafunata di Paliri m. 1312
Tafunata di Paliri is a three-cuspidate complex summit situated in the Paliri Chain and delimitated by Finosella saddle on its north side and Finosa saddle on its south side. It’s showing two main faces right for climbing: the Nort-West side and the South-East side; this two faces are pierced by a big hole - close to the summit – which gives the name to this mountain: as a matter of fact in the local dialect “tafunata” means “hole”. On the sunny South-East face - a 250 mt. high face – have been realized several climbing routes on excellent granite, nearby the fine milieu of the Paliri Hut, a bucolic and charmed place. Through this hut is transiting the GR 20, a famous trail which crosses the island from Nort-West to South-East. The most frequented and classic routes on this face are “Maravigliosa”, “Aventuriers de l’Entresol”, “Sari”, “Traversata S-N” and “Normal Route”. The North-West face is 500 mt. high, one of most high and severe in Bavella Massif, overlooking San Petru River. The most important routes on NW face are “Bettembourg Spur” and “Jean-Noel Roche Pillar”.
ROAD ACCESS TO BAVELLA PASS
From Bastia (Corsica eastern coast) along RN 198 to Solenzara; less then 1 km. before Solenzara turn to right and follow D268 to Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
From Aiaccio (Corsica western coast) along RN 196 to Petreto, then along N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow D268 to Col de Bavella.
WALKING APPROACH TO SOUTH-EAST FACE
From Auberge – Gite d’Etape “du Col de Bavella”, situated 500 mt. from Bavella Pass along NE side of D268, take the forestal road starting behind the hut and leading to GR20 trail; the trail goes down reaching another forestal road crossing a stream. Follow it for a short distance (about 150 mt.), then turn to right following again GR20. The trail rises across a “pino laricio” forest and reachs Finosa Pass mt. 1195; from here the trail goes down to the beautiful Paliri Hut m. 1055 (water, guarded in summer). From the hut a short track in five minutes leads to South-East Face (2 hours from the “Gite d’Etape”).
WALKING APPROACH TO NORTH-WEST FACE
From Bavella Pass go down along D268 towards Solenzara, reaching the “Arza Forestal House” (Maison Forestiere d’Arza). Parking. Just below the house follow on the right-hand side a forestal road crossing some stream over some causeways. After last stream – Riu San Petru – the forestal road reachs the orographic right side of the valley. After another bridge, a stones pyramid marks on the right-hand side the path to Finosella Pass. Follow this trail which crosses a dried stream. A few meters before the dried stream leave the main trail leading to Orgui d’u San Petru and Finosella Pass and follow on the right an uncertain track marked by a stones pyramid, rising inside the forest. When the trail reachs an other stream, leave it, rising along a thick vegetation towards a great pillar. 50 mt. before reaching the base of the pillar , skirt towards right, heading to a rocky shoulder. Climb it towards the great corner where begins “Bettembourg Spur”.
Red TapeBavella is really a fantastic world, a preserved milieu situated inside a Regional Park. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to keep for the future this extraordinary environment.
Nature and climate
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.
Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
Tafunata di Paliri routes overview
TAFUNATA DI PALIRI ROUTES OVERVIEW (from left to right)
“Normal Route” PD, “ via ferrata” (equipped with iron chains) 200 mt.
“Tatafoni” D not equipped
“Traversata SW-NE” D, 5b, 200 mt.
“Maravigliosa” TD sup., 6b+, 6a obbl., 150 mt., bolts
“Aventuriers de l’Entresol” TD, 6c, A0, 6a obbl., 200 mt., bolds
"U me amore" TD, 6a max, 270 m., trad climb
“Andaccianu” TD, 250 mt., trad climb
“Togna” TD, 250 mt.
“L’omu liberu” TD, 300 mt., Trad climb
“Sari” TD, 350 mt., Trad climb
“NE Ridge” AD
“Krah Route” D, 400 mt.
“Bettembourg Spur” TD, 450 mt. Trad climb
"Grand Hotel ABO, 400, Engaging trad climb
“Le Bananier” TD, 150 mt.
“U Scoddu” TD, 400 mt.
"Jean Noel Roche Pillar" TD, &a obbl., 400 mt. Trad climb
“Foelsche Route” D
“SW Ridge” AD
Where to stayCOL DE BAVELLA
- Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape
AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
- Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape
GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
– Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse
- Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere
When to climbBest season to climb goes from late April to October.
Guidebooks and maps
“Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella by Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
"Corse L'ile verticale" by Martail Lacroix - Pierre Sanchou
IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”