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Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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wdimpflWinter Ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 15, 1969


After an abortive attempt in January Carlo Alesandrini and I returned to do my first successful winter ascent. We drove to Twin Lakes and spend two days placing our high camp on the Dragtooth Glacier, where we dug a snowcave. the next day we ascended the steep couloir to the left of the Matterhorn Peak summit and ascended the rock and snow on the backside to the summit. We glissaded down the backside and traversed across to Polemonium Pass, which we glissaded down to return to our snow cave.
Posted Dec 22, 2017 5:33 am

labglovesEast Coulier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2017


East Coulier
Posted Aug 11, 2017 11:36 pm

BobD3Standard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2016


Clear as a bell. No wind. Beautiful early fall day with great views all around.
Posted Oct 4, 2016 8:37 pm

RomainSE Slopes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2015


On a solo trip. Not a very inspiring route, but the summit views are something to behold.
Posted Jul 15, 2016 1:49 am

SchwartzOnMake your own way  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2013


Was on an epic 5 day loop from Tower to Matterhorn to Volunteer Peak and tagged this from Rock Island Pass to Burro Pass, saw it in mid afternoon, and climbed quickly. A great ascent from any side, then headed down Matterhorn canyon which goes on forever! Could Horsetail falls be as exciting? So many routes to choose.
Posted Feb 12, 2016 11:51 am

FairweatherNorth Arete X2  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 1991


Classic climb in a great location.
With Jim & Scott.
Returned with Chris & Marty in about 2003.
Great camping at the small lake below both times.
Much more snow/ice to deal with on the approach in 1991.
Chris's wolf dog followed us as best he could up the descent gully after breaking loose from the tree by the lake.
Posted Nov 3, 2015 1:11 am

jdmorehouseEast Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2015


The "glacier" is mostly gone. Fresh rock fall over the remaining ice of the glacier was highly unstable. I set off a boulder the size of a refrigerator by merely touching it. Fortunately I was able to pivot out of the way before it launched itself down the boulder field. Better to climb this when it's below freezing.
Posted Sep 15, 2015 9:24 pm

mesidjzHorse Creek TH, SE Slope, S Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015


Beautiful day for a very long hike! The average of three GPS measurements put the round trip distance at 17 miles. A lot of rock slides allow for some easy scrambles albeit challenging route finding as the trail is obscured. The route to the summit is easier from the pass if you follow the ridge line picking your way through white pine. Descending down the sandy face was an absolute blast!! Wear gators! Allow for a 12 hour day; more if you take a dip in the creek on the way back :)
Posted Jun 22, 2015 12:39 pm

sierramtngoatHorse Creek TH, SE Slope, S Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 22, 2014


Got to say that the route description is seriously lacking; the summit is probably 8 miles one direction, the summit block is also class three. Climbed with my buddy Collin, an epic slog/summit.
Posted Oct 23, 2014 3:21 am

calipidderSloggity slog slog  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2014


A long hike, made longer by the morning meander through the campground looking for the unmarked trailhead. Mostly reasonable trail/goattrack to Horse Creek Pass (aim high), then that looong slog up the sandy slope. 2 hours up, 5 minutes down on that stuff. Wheee! Loved the views from the summit- I remember doing a backpacking loop in N Yose several years ago and picking out the summit and deciding I'd climb it someday - and this was before my peak bagging days.
Posted Aug 24, 2014 6:00 pm

cabSE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014


Pretty miserable sand slog up the SE face after climbing Whorl earlier in the day. Cool views though.
Posted Aug 18, 2014 1:22 pm

hoglordRoute Climbed: North Arete Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2014


Had a killer time climbing the North Arete. We finished the last two pitches on the Arete proper. Amazing exposure and views there.

Does anyone know what the difficulty of this variation maybe? It felt burly, but I was carrying a pack with a camp for the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse. Super fun route. And definitely the line on the mountain.
Posted Jul 29, 2014 12:24 pm

colinrUp Horse Creek from Mono Village  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2014


Second time up Matterhorn, but took the easiest way this time. Nice wildflower display this time up the creek! Hiked up fast and stuck to the brushy ridge from the pass area upward. Took the fast sandy scree down. Gotta try the Col sometime for variety.
Posted Jul 25, 2014 5:20 pm

braindancerRematch fail
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2014


Came back for a rematch, thinking that now we know the route better and are in better shape. Made it to previous stopping point about 1.5 hours earlier. Advanced quite a bit but still ran out of time again.

Not sure about 5.5 miles BTW; we haven't made it even close to the summit and yet both our pedometers showed around 16 miles.
Posted Jul 7, 2014 11:20 pm

braindancerTiming/route-finding fail
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013


We started too late (9am), assuming this will be fairly quick (5.5 miles one way). Nope. This is the most confusing route ever, so we spent so much time figuring our way out that it was quite clear that we're not making it (needed to drive home that night).
Posted Jul 7, 2014 11:17 pm

AdamJgood times  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012


second time up matterhorn peak. This time went up the couloir, had to use crampons/axe. Great glissade down. One of my all time favorites!
Posted Apr 15, 2014 5:36 pm

MarekBGood climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2014


Climbed West and descended East Couloirs with friends on a clear, sunny March day. Still quite a bit of snow on the rock despite low precip this winter. Good conditions in the couloirs and no need for pro there but we kept crampons on and used running belay throughout the trough/ledges on the SW side of the mountain.
Posted Mar 18, 2014 5:01 pm

jbagleyCAG Guided Trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2012
This was a guided trip through CAG, and a first taste of mountaineering. Very little snow throughout the route.
Posted Nov 14, 2013 7:14 pm

HohnikerWindy  Sucess!


Climbed East Couloir in semi winter conditions with California Alpine Guides. 50-60mph gusts on top so didn't stay long. Gorgeous day out. I recommend the company.
Posted Sep 25, 2013 6:30 pm

bleakleysummer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
Went up as part of a summer mountaineering class.
Posted Sep 19, 2013 3:49 pm

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