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Matterhorn Peak Climber's Log

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braindancerRematch fail
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2014

braindancer

Came back for a rematch, thinking that now we know the route better and are in better shape. Made it to previous stopping point about 1.5 hours earlier. Advanced quite a bit but still ran out of time again.

Not sure about 5.5 miles BTW; we haven't made it even close to the summit and yet both our pedometers showed around 16 miles.
Posted Jul 7, 2014 11:20 pm

braindancerTiming/route-finding fail
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2013

braindancer

We started too late (9am), assuming this will be fairly quick (5.5 miles one way). Nope. This is the most confusing route ever, so we spent so much time figuring our way out that it was quite clear that we're not making it (needed to drive home that night).
Posted Jul 7, 2014 11:17 pm

AdamJgood times  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012

AdamJ

second time up matterhorn peak. This time went up the couloir, had to use crampons/axe. Great glissade down. One of my all time favorites!
Posted Apr 15, 2014 5:36 pm

MarekBGood climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2014

MarekB

Climbed West and descended East Couloirs with friends on a clear, sunny March day. Still quite a bit of snow on the rock despite low precip this winter. Good conditions in the couloirs and no need for pro there but we kept crampons on and used running belay throughout the trough/ledges on the SW side of the mountain.
Posted Mar 18, 2014 5:01 pm

jbagleyCAG Guided Trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2012
This was a guided trip through CAG, and a first taste of mountaineering. Very little snow throughout the route.
Posted Nov 14, 2013 7:14 pm

HohnikerWindy  Sucess!

Hohniker

Climbed East Couloir in semi winter conditions with California Alpine Guides. 50-60mph gusts on top so didn't stay long. Gorgeous day out. I recommend the company.
Posted Sep 25, 2013 6:30 pm

bleakleysummer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
Went up as part of a summer mountaineering class.
Posted Sep 19, 2013 3:49 pm

ZeGreat views  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Dec 16, 2013

Ze

Nice hike except the scree slog on the final push.
Posted Aug 29, 2013 9:10 pm

RuvichaLong, Great Hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013

Ruvicha

See Ambret's entry in the summit log and trip report.
Posted Aug 26, 2013 8:50 pm

AmbretVia SW Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013

Ambret

Summitted with Ruvicha via Horse Creek Canyon and the southwest slope. A very long day for us, but it was great to get to the top after having had to turn back last year. Spectacular views in all directions.
Posted Aug 23, 2013 1:04 am

orbitorFrom Horse Creek Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2013

orbitor

Summer Sierra season got under way with a solid climb of the northernmost SPS Emblem Peak. Trail from Twin Lakes up Horse Creek is ok, then all cross-country. Went up the side way too early and ended up climbing some very steep and loose terrain. Route up to Horse Creek Pass was very blocky. From HCP, a slog in the sand to near the summit; two steps up, one down. Very frustrating and exhausting. Eventually reached the solid rock near the top, climbed class 3 blocks to highpoint. Tremendous views in all directions. The off-trail, boulder-hoping part on the way back felt never-ending. Tough one-day ascent, but some of the best views anywhere!
Posted Aug 14, 2013 7:31 pm

DonnoEast Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2012

Donno

East Coolie w/ Pete & Rahil
Posted Aug 11, 2013 9:28 pm

CWesselsVia East Coul.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2013

CWessels

I can't remember the exact date, so this is approximate.

The east couloir was just a slog. The only class 3 section (and the only part that was fun) is after you reach the saddle at the top of the couloir. Otherwise, it's class 2. I think the west coul. is probably a better scramble. In late season, do everything in your power to avoid the sand and talus on the west side of the snowfield; that is some of the steepest, LOOSEST choss I have ever hiked on. Ever.
Posted Jul 14, 2013 6:35 pm

ernestssonA Little In Over Our Heads

ernestsson

Inspired by Dharma Bums, a desire to get more into mountain climbing, and the proximity to my grandparents' cabin (in the Virginia Lakes valley a few valleys over to the southeast) I decided to try to climb this peak with my girlfriend. Too ambitious. Also didn't do my homework well.
We approached the peak from the north, scrambling up the East Couloir (as near as I can tell), making it to within at most 500 feet of the summit, but we weren't sure where to go from the east ridge and had reached our turnback time. We weren't as comfortable with the terrain as we'd like so descended via the Southeast Slope and Horse Creek Pass, getting to back to the trailhead well after dark.
Will have to come back, with a USGS map and better planning, and give it another try!
Posted Jun 11, 2013 1:40 am

Saluki72Great Trip!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2013

Saluki72

Awesome trip up, snow was a little sketchy coming back down but the views up top were worth it.
Posted Apr 18, 2013 7:53 pm

HyadventureNorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012

Hyadventure

A long a$$ drive to make a long a$$ climb. I thought I was toast by the time I finished the approach. Let my partner lead P1 and by the time it was my turn to lead my head was back into it. Lead P2 (very easy) P4 (Spicy and long) a short P5 (only places 1 peice) and the interesting 4th class traverse to the true summit. My partner got the money pitch P6.
Posted Oct 19, 2012 3:13 pm

HyadventureRe: Matterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guide

Hyadventure

This log is for Matterhorn Peak in California. You might want to move this post.
Posted Oct 19, 2012 3:03 pm

ChuckONorth Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012

ChuckO

Successful climb & summit with Paul F.; trip was full definition of "mountaineering = nice!; Paul lead all the pitches of technical climb (thanks!); the 5.6 crack pitch on the blank face with lots of air was awesome!!; tough (for me) final move onto top-out of climb.
Posted Oct 15, 2012 3:01 pm

roylacMatterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guide  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

roylac

I'm not an experienced climber but my story and video might be helpful for others who are planning this climb.
http://roy.lachica.no/matterhorn/
Posted Sep 6, 2012 2:50 pm

Vitaliy M.Double Dihedral  Sucess!

Vitaliy M.

Did double Dihedral and traversed to Dragtooth and Doodad after
Posted Aug 27, 2012 3:39 pm

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