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Mount Gardiner Climber's Log

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relicVia E or NE chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2016


The ridge portion is indeed enjoyable. Back in my home range, the North Cascades, a knife edge like that we'd call 5.0. Of course, the rock would likely be crappier.
Posted Sep 3, 2016 12:14 pm

RoryKuykendallNot quite
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2013


Took a day off work from my job at Furnace Creek Ranch to attempt this as a dayhike from Onion Valley. Really enjoyed the approach from Charlotte Lake. Started feeling not so hot at about 12,000 feet (I was living 200 feet below sea level at the time). I got to the base of the South Summit but decided to bail on the class 4 and descend into Gardiner Basin and eat lunch. Ended up hiking back through 60 Lakes Basin, past Rae Lakes, and Glen Pass. All in all a fantastic 17 hour day in the High Sierra.
Posted Sep 10, 2014 1:03 am

cabFrom Onion Valley  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2014


First peak of a 3 day Labor Day adventure. Climbed Gardiner on Day 1 from Onion Valley. The final ridge to the summit was great fun on solid, exposed Class 3+ rock. Climbed Cotter and Clarence King on Day 2.
Posted Sep 2, 2014 2:28 pm

bc44caesarNortheast Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011


Climbed Gardiner after an exciting climb of Cotter. A slog up to the south summit. Some easy 4th class scrambling and a cool, easy knife edge lead to the true summit. I disagree with others here though - Clarence King is a much more serious and challenging summit.
Posted Sep 10, 2011 7:56 pm

mrchad9NE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011


Great trip with Vitaliy M. and Max up the NE ridge from the highest lake in 60 Lakes Basin before Clarence King the next day. Fun class 2-3 on the ridge surpassed only by the summit ridge. Really liked this peak.
Posted Jul 26, 2011 2:43 am

seanoFrom Charlotte Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011


With Tom and Laura. Mostly a sand-slog and talus-hop, but an exciting finish.
Posted Jul 19, 2011 1:54 pm

craig512Gardiner Pass to South summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011


This was the toughest hike I've ever done. It took four of us 19 hours from Roads End 6:30am to 1:30am. With the huge amount of water runoff and snow around the South slope we decided to hike up to Gardiner Pass and across the ridge to the South summit because nobody had crampons or waterproof boots. This route does give you excellent views north along the ridge. There was a HUGE avalanche this spring that took out about 300 yards of trees for about a mile or two on the south slope of Gardiner Pass, be careful if crossing this mess. Also, the summit register is missing, so if you do summit bring a pad and pen to leave :(
Posted Jun 27, 2011 2:02 pm

Desert SolitaireMore fun than Clarence King!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2009

Desert Solitaire

Definitely more fun than Clarence King! Climbed in a day from camp as part of the Kings Spur traverse (CK, Cotter, Gardiner). Coming from Gardiner Lakes, I took the sweeping ridge that leads to the lower summit. It was fun class 2-3 scrambling the whole way, and the summit ridge was loooots of scrambling fun. Staying on the knife-edge the WHOLE time bumps up the difficulty to a short 5.5 move.
Posted Oct 2, 2009 11:41 am

bechttAscent SE Ridge, Descent E Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2008


Long day hike out from Onion Valley. Easy ascent/traverse leads to the South Peak where the fun begins! Descended East Chute and climbed Mt Cotter before the long exit via Rae, Glen, and Kearsarge Passes. Pictures and trip report
Posted Sep 27, 2008 12:51 pm

Bob BurdFrom Roads End  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008

Bob Burd

Not quite the slog I recalled now that I was only carrying a daypack. Much nicer! Trip Report
Posted Aug 2, 2008 9:35 pm

Matthew HollimanDayhike from Cedar Grove  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007

Matthew Holliman

Ascended the south slopes, then descended the east chute to head over to Cotter. Looped back via Sixty Lakes Basin and the Woods Creek trail--a very long, rather tiring day. The bushwhacking past Charlotte Dome pretty much sapped any drive I had to go and climb that thing, at least until I forget how bad the brush was...

The knife edge is a fun scramble, with nice exposure and perfect holds right where you want them. Some of the easiest 4th class I've climbed in the Sierra.
Posted Aug 21, 2007 2:33 am

RSN473Route Climbed: NE Chute to E ridge Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2004  Sucess!


East ridge was climbing at it's best!
Posted Jun 2, 2005 12:26 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: Summer 1980  Sucess!
Long day climb from Onion Valley. Climbed solo in a near whiteout.
Posted Jan 21, 2004 11:03 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: South Slope (ascent), East Chute (descent) Date Climbed: July 14, 2000  Sucess!

Bob Burd

mconnell and I were on a grand tour of the Gardiner Basin, climbing Mt. Gardiner on the second day. We carried all our crap up to nearly 13,000 ft at the south summit, traversed over to the north summit and back, then carried our gear down to Gardiner Lakes. I had a helluva headache at the high altitude, but the climbing on the knife edge was fantastic. And the climb from Charlotte Creek is an amazing slog. Worse than Mt. Clark's NW Arete approach! Trip report
Posted Aug 30, 2001 10:06 pm

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