Route Climbed: Gilbert Ice Couloir (AKA North or Engram Couloir) Date Climbed: October 12, 1998
I climbed this ice couloir two times (never roped) in the last few years. First time with Eric Klostermann in 10 hours RT from South Lake in October of 1998 and second time with Michael Gordon in August of 2000. This ice couloir can be a really good, one day RT car-to-car, solo outing. Several of my friends do it every year, just for training. The fact, that one climbs up the gully and down the Treasure Col back to the Treasure Lakes trail and the car, allows for this. There really is not ANY 5.6 climbing, if one follows the easiest way. From the notch at the top of the couloir, drop down 40 feet, traverse left 20 feet, climb 4th class ramp that changes into low angle corner. 200 feet of this gets you to the summit. This is one of the best ice gullies in the Sierra, because of it's position, because it's away from major trails and you can easily do the climb in a day from your car at South Lake. Recommended.
Route Climbed: Southeast Slopes Date Climbed: June 14, 2002
As a warmup for attempting the Williamson dayhike the following day, I climbed Mts. Gilbert and Johnson out of South Lake. The SE Slope on Gilbert is mostly a slog, but the climb up to Treasure Col was fun. Trip Report
Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 1979, Sept. 1983
I first climbed this awesome ice route in 1979 with Britt Reeves under warm conditions, with perfect neve. Unroped of course. Came back in Sept. 1983, right after a big snow dump. Climbed it this time with Tim Winiarski and Mike Meng. 900' of 65 degree powder snow over water ice. Talk about scared! I watched avalanches ( caused by Tim ) make my boots disappear. A real epic! Unroped of course! But the class 4 - 5 at the top covered with powder snow was definitely the crux ( a lot easier when dry )!