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leftyWaterfall Pitch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006

lefty

No ice or water on the route.
Posted Oct 25, 2007 12:19 am

Dave SNorthwest Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2007

Dave S

Solo dayhike linkup of Irvine, Mallory, and LeConte. Great day!
Posted Sep 8, 2007 8:10 pm

tb00957northeast face/east arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007
very loose getting to the plateau, but afterwards it's fun third class.
Posted Sep 5, 2007 1:43 pm

kovarpaNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

kovarpa

Soloed North Face in about ten minutes, down via NW chute. Third peak of the day, dark clouds rolling in...
Posted Sep 5, 2007 12:11 am

BranchWhitneyNorthwest chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2007
Route finding was easy. Waterfall pitch was interesting and I believe it should be rated class 4. We put a quick link around the webbing for descending the waterfall pitch. Great views from the summit.
Posted Sep 4, 2007 9:17 am

MoabPeakBaggernot too shabby  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2006

MoabPeakBagger

Summitted via NW Chute. Waterfall Pitch was really not that bad.
Posted Jun 9, 2007 8:34 pm

Desert SolitaireTraverse from Corcoran  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2006

Desert Solitaire

Fun scrambling on the traverse, which was *very* well ducked, by the way. No need for people to fuss around and suffer from "big air" - just follow the ducks for a nice climb. It was nice looking down on the waterfall pitch - didn't look too hard from the top.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 2:52 am

uwjennieTraverse from Corcoran  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2006

uwjennie

Great day, but cold and windy.
Posted Sep 28, 2006 1:26 am

physicsNW chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

physics

climbed with Brian from UCLA on the way to Mallory; actually climbed twice, the first time "checking out" the route while he went back partly across the ridge of Peak 3985m on his way to see if he could find his harness and gear he lost...
Posted Jul 4, 2006 2:12 pm

asmrzVia North Face I, 5.3, June 10th, 2006  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006

asmrz

Penelope May and I hiked the Meysan Lakes trail to the Upper Meysan Lake and next morning climbed the snow gully to the base of the North Face. Three vertical pitches of technical crack climbing on very good rock and a long traverse left put us on the summit. The problems started there. We elected to descent the East Ridge (class 3) and needed to rope up on 2 pitches of steep downclimbing to get to the access ramp. The ramp consists of easy 4th class slab but when covered by couple inches of snow, it represented a major problem. Two somewhat runout and insecure friction traverses (in mountain boots) got us back to the terra firma. A long descent down the 1500' of hardening snow gully followed. Reached our tent at 7:30 PM. The short (3 pitches) rock climb is suprisingly good climbing for the rating, 6-8 hexes and medium stoppers, 6 slings, we had 8mm rope. Great, early summer conditions. A lot of snow on the high peaks, somewhat more than one would expect for this time of year.
Posted Jun 19, 2006 3:39 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: NW Chute Date Climbed: September 10, 2005  Sucess!

forjan

Second peak of the day on my solo link-up of Mallory/LeConte/Lone Pine Peak. Left the Meysan trailhead at 5:00am. Summited Mallory at 10:01am, summited LeConte at 11:12am and finally Lone Pine Peak at 2:00pm. I agree with others that the waterfall pitch needs to be rated class 4 on the climber's left side and then class 5 the further right you go.
Posted Sep 11, 2005 2:15 pm

bechttRoute Climbed: Northwest Chute Date Climbed: 20 Aug 05  Sucess!

bechtt

Great climb out of Meysan Lake. Waterfall Pitch wasn't a problem until the down climb. Thanks to socalmtneer for new webbing.
Posted Aug 21, 2005 9:29 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: NW Chute Date Climbed: July 22, 2005  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

The waterfall pitch seemed harder than some of the 5th class I've led. Traversed on to Corcoran afterwards (great beta from Eric and Bob made this fairly straightforward), and returned via Iridescent Lake/Arc Pass rather than repeat the traverse back to LeConte and downclimb (or fall down) the waterfall pitch. Dayhike out of the Meysan trailhead.
Posted Jul 25, 2005 8:30 pm

awagherRoute Climbed: North West Chute Date Climbed: July 22nd, 2005

awagher

Met up with Matthew Holliman and did LeConte. A long day for me as I was not feeling the greatest. Lost Matthew (or he lost me) early on. Not sure about the class 3 rating. Nice day out. Waterfall pitch was not as much as I had expected although I did a quick rap on the way down (left a piece of new webbing there). Great views all around. The only snow on the route was between Meysan lake and the LeConte Mallory saddle.
Posted Jul 23, 2005 4:18 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: Northwest Chute Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2004  Sucess!

Bob Burd

A Lone Pine - LeConte - Corcoran triple header, a very long and tiring 14hrs. Trip Report
Posted Nov 21, 2004 10:53 pm

CompletebumRoute Climbed: NW Chute Date Climbed: Sepember 4, 2004  Sucess!

Completebum

Made it to the top in 5.5 hours, the waterfall pitch had a small amount of snow on it from the previous day making it more exciting than it should have been.
Posted Sep 6, 2004 2:38 pm

Rick KentRoute Climbed: Northwest Chute Date Climbed: June 20, 2004  Sucess!

Rick Kent

Was a little concerned climbing up the waterfall pitch. Also had a problem with weather. Clouds had formed up over the summit but I hoped they wouldn't develop into a thunderstorm. When I reached the top (or very near) and poked my head up I heard a buzzing sound in my head and immediately knew what it meant. Before I could locate the summit register I descended slightly to ponder my next move. A moment later a crack of thunder confirmed my fear. The summit was charged up and this was not a good place to be. I descended slightly more and another crack of thunder convinced me it wasn't worth the risk to locate the register. After the second crack of thunder it started to hail and snow. I realized that this would make getting over the waterfall pitch even more difficult so I headed down as quickly as possible. As I feared, by the time I reached the waterfall pitch the hand and footholds (the few there are) were covered with snow and hail. By this time it was really unloading on me. Realizing things were only getting worse with every passing second I descended the waterfall pitch as quickly as possible and somehow managed not to slip and break a leg. Thanks to whoever left the webbing up there. I probably would have slipped without it. Fortunately, the rest of the descent was uneventful.
Posted Jul 7, 2004 12:32 pm

ShanoRoute Climbed: East Gully Date Climbed: 22May 2004  Sucess!

Shano

ascent via the East Chute ("The Laughing Dolphin") from Tuttle Creek.

Fairly straightforward with the exception of passing the chockstone which was a huge ice cube underneath. A rope and a partner would have been nice!

Posted May 24, 2004 11:26 am

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: Northwest Chute Date Climbed: May 15th, 2004  Sucess!

PellucidWombat

Nice climb. I bagged this one on my way back from Corcoran. The route was rather anticlimatic, though, since the waterfall pitch wasn't as formidable as I had expected! Apart from cold hands resulting from handjamming in ice-filled cracks, and some akward chimney work, the 15ft scramble wasn't too precarious - I think there were more dangerous scrambling portions later on along the traverse to Corcoran!

I had meant to continue on to do Mallory and Irvine, but sadly I was too slow after having lugged a rope and pro all the way up. Perhaps another day!
Posted May 19, 2004 3:24 am

thebeave7Route Climbed: Northwest chute Date Climbed: August 29th, 2003  Sucess!

thebeave7

After opting for Bob's non snow approach to the saddle, had no trouble navigating my way up to the summit. This was my first peak of 4 on this day(read my trip report for a full description of the traverse).
Posted Aug 30, 2003 7:52 pm

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