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Mount Lyell Climber's Log

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Zingedayhike lyell-maclure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007


Made for one hell of a long day... but well worth it!
Posted Sep 11, 2007 12:52 am

rhyangEast Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007


Climbed up left side of glacier to East Arete; lots of ice patches on glacier - clearly the melt streams have been freezing overnight - bring steel crampons and know french technique ! There were pools of ice near the moraine.

Fantastic views, perfect day, a bit windy. Descended standard route to Lyell-Maclure saddle. The glacier was in better condition from there (smaller ice patches, more snow).
Posted Aug 6, 2007 3:53 am

bechttGlacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007


Crossed schrund via what appeared as the last snow bridge. Peak #1 on JMT adventure.
Posted Aug 1, 2007 4:51 pm

AdamusEast Snowfield and Traverse Along Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
Went up the first snowfield on the east side of the buttress and did class 4/5 climbing west along the ridge to the summit. Continued down to saddle and scrambled up Maclure as well. The bergschrund is small. Easily avoidable on the west side if one keeps to the ridge or climbs the rock. Glacier has melted way down. One could pretty much avoid almost all snow by staying as far west as they can along the base of Maclure Ridge and sticking to talus. Any snow along here is so low-angled that it's not much concern anyway though. A good, hot day.
Posted Jul 30, 2007 5:11 pm

VladislavDayhike Lyell/Maclure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007


Like a river
I'll make many turns
Before reaching the end
Of the journey.
Posted Jul 18, 2007 11:16 am

sierramtngoatRoute Climbed: NW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007


Climbed the NW Ridge with Maria, following the path of least resistance midway up the glacier; the snow was very soft so the "glacier direct" with the massive bergschrund and the steep pitch at the top was not an option. We stayed very close to the ridge line and agreed that it is class 4 at least one point, in a 10 ft. chimney. The view from the top was spectacular. I have great respect for people that dayhike Lyell; even in good conditions, I imagine that this mountain would be a very long day. Lyell Canyon is gorgeous though, well worth the base camp haul in my humble opinion.
Posted Jul 15, 2007 4:51 pm

metasyn11Lyell Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007


I had planned on taking the glacier considerably higher up the summit ridge to avoid the steep section altogether... and I made it around the gaping bergschrund but soon steep, soft, suncupped snow forced me off early, right at the middle of the steep class 3-4 rock.
The rock was scrambled and the summit reached.
I avoided the rapidly softening snow on the descent, heading directly to the col, encountering much stiff class 3 rock (occasionally unnerving).
Keema documented.
Posted Jul 14, 2007 12:04 pm

Desert SolitaireRegister  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007

Desert Solitaire

Climbed with a great team. Glacier was incredibly suncupped, and thus not quite the best snow climb. Left a brand new register up there. The register lives on the summit. Please do not remove it from there.
Posted Jul 9, 2007 1:03 am

tb00957lyell  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2004
low snow year. there is a class 4 move.
Posted Jun 22, 2007 4:00 pm

PantilatLyell/Maclure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007


9 hours and 55 minute round trip from Tuolumne Meadows.
Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:45 am

gjonbelayLyell from the Maclure Saddle in 2004  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2004


After we traversed the glacier we ascended from saddle between Lyell and Maclure. Bob Suzuki lead us up this peak on a PCS trip.Trip Report.
Posted Jun 14, 2007 5:43 pm

bcdlyell  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 30, 2007


still lots of snow in the upper elevations.
Posted Jun 4, 2007 2:12 pm

murraymcleodClimbed via the usual glacier route....  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1972


...but back in ancient days when the glacier was really something (must have extended almost to Tuolomne Meadows back in the 70's, if my memory is correct!). All I really remember is lots of mosquitos at the small lake base-camp. Climbed with wife #1 (Susan Stubblefield) on honeymoon hike!
Posted Apr 10, 2007 6:17 pm

hockeymanAwesome trip!  Sucess!


Hiked in Lyell Canyon. Camped high - about 10 miles in. Left camp early the next morning with light packs. crampons and axes. Did the Class 4 ridge to the summit. Getting on the ridge was the crux. Great views of Banner and Ritter.
Posted Mar 7, 2007 4:46 pm

Dennis PoulinMt. Lyell  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 28, 2006

Dennis Poulin

This is a LONG dayhike. Beautiful wilderness experience with only a few people on the trails.
Posted Oct 29, 2006 10:33 pm

RockmanGreat fun!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2005


First time I specifically set out to bag a peak. I must say, it's kind of nice.
Posted Aug 29, 2006 4:54 am

derbillyEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2006


Ascended the East Ridge from Marie Lakes and descended via the glacier and Donohue Pass after tagging Maclure.
Posted Aug 17, 2006 4:44 pm

Augie MedinaRoute Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: Sept. 23, 2001

Augie Medina

We had come in the previous day from the Rush Creek Trailhead and set up camp below Donohue Pass. On summit day, we crossed Lyell Glacier to the notch between Lyell and Mt. Maclure and then up to the top of Lyell. We then descended back down to the notch and picked up Mt. Maclure's Southeast Ridge (talus and ledges; Class 3) to Maclure's summit (12,960 ft.).
Posted Feb 16, 2006 10:41 pm

peakbagerRoute Climbed: Lyell Glacier- East Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 22 1996  Sucess!


Very Nice Peak and the east ridge is great. views from the summit are outstanding, we could see El Cap.
Posted Jan 19, 2006 7:46 am

kpiljayRoute Climbed: Glacier Date Climbed: August 2002


Climbed glacier to saddle between Lyell and McClure. Was on the wrong side to summit, so we didn't. Lots of suncups!
Posted Oct 27, 2005 11:14 am

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