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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.44010°N / 14.21260°E |
Route Type:
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Basic snow climb till 45° |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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Climbing in the steep ravine |
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Approach
From Ljubelj pass, the border between Slovenia and Austria you will ascend below the north face and slopes of Begunjscica on the Dom na Zelenici (hut) (1536m). You can reach the hut over the skiing slopes or over the macadam road in the forest.
Warning: The difficulty for this route on Vrtaca is estimate for the Winter season. In the time when the north slopes and face of Vrtaca is snowless this are not fine and popular ascents.
Route Description
The NE face of Vrtaca and the NE ravine.
From the Zelenica hut you follow the marked route to the start of the hunting route that goes in the basin Suho rusevje. This is the basin below the NE face of Vrtaca (2180m), SE face of Zelenjak (2024m) and SW face and slopes of Palec (2026m). You walk over the hardly followed route thorugh the dwarf pine and by big rocks. Soon the landscape change and you walk now over the screes and you follow the best walked routes.
When you look to the west direction you see the NE face of Vrtaca. The first big ravine is Leva grapa (Left ravine) and then the second one and at the same time the last one before Zelenjak is the NE ravine. You can ascend on the start of it over the steep scree or you continue to the end of the basin Suho rusevje and then go back below the NE face of the Vrtaca to the start of the NE ravine.
Now you start climbing in the ravine and first part is not very steep and you walk it for warming. Then you come below of the some tower and now you turn to the left ravine and when you stop crossing you start climbing in the steepest part of the ravine. If this part is snowless you must climb few meters of the UIAA I-II. But if there is snow is more easy and you just climb the steep flank 45°. Now you are over the hardest place and to the top of Vrtaca you have some meters of climbing in ravine and then you come on the summit of Vrtaca.
For descend I recommend you (if the conditions are good) the Leva grapa (Left ravine) or SE ridge . If you want you can also descend over the marked route back to Zelenica.
Some of good skiiers also ski in NE ravine.
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Essential Gear
Good hiking shoes and total Winter equipment.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.