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Vrtaca / Wertatscha
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Vrtaca / Wertatscha

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Vrtaca / Wertatscha

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Karavanke / Karawanken, Austria/Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.44010°N / 14.21260°E

Object Title: Vrtaca / Wertatscha

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7155 ft / 2181 m

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: May 8, 2004 / Oct 4, 2014

Object ID: 152594

Hits: 8546 

Page Score: 87.31%  - 24 Votes 

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Overview

At the end of Poden/Bodental
Vrtača from the north
Vrtaca from the SE
Vrtača from the SE
Sunset
JFS - Vrtača from the SW
Wertatscha, 2.181m
flow - Vrtača from the west

What's New Here?


A complete page redesign.
> December 26th, 2004: Many links inserted.
> May 8th, 2004: Initial set up of the page.

Vrtaca Gets Presented


Although mountains in Karavanke/Karawanken are not very high, Vrtača/Wertatscha has all features of a big summit (it is the second highest in Karavanke). Its north face is some 600 meters high and offers also hard rock climbs, there are many approaches on its summit, which require scramble or easy rock climbing, there's a marked path and in winter and spring classical ski tours and also harder alpinistic ski descents can be done. As all Karavanke/Karawanken summits also Vrtača offers a great panorama.

The mountain presents itself very differently on different sides. For sure its most beautiful side is the northern one. Towards the end of Bodental/Poden its steep and broad north wall is falling, so beautifully contrasting the dark woods and a few lovely clearings in them. Maerchenwiese/Mlaka is an alpine meadow, where one could stay for hours, never getting tired of the lovely scenes.

Towards the south, Vrtača is less imposing. Its high, mostly grassy slopes are partly obscured by the completely unimportant summit of Srednji vrh, so the mountain is standing quite in the background of the whole scenery. Only from a few points in Gorenjska plane you can distinguish the second highest mountain of Karavanke.

As by nature it is a ridge mountain, from the East and West Vrtača appears as a nice, high cone peak. But you must get qute close to see it - it is not seen from valleys, only from the nearby summits of Karavanke.

So, Vrtača is located in the central part of Karavanke/Karawanken, where this range has most alpine characteristics. From its summit a long main ridge is running towards the west, connecting it with the subgroup of Stol/Hochstuhl, 2236 m. Close to the summit a short side ridge is deterring towards the SW, hosting also the normal ascent route. On the other side, the main ridge turns from the summit first towards the north-east, goes over the neighbouring summit of Zelenjak, 2024 m, after the summit of Palec/Selenitza, 2026 m it turns south-east and then continues over many lower summits (Na Možeh, 1784 m) towards the east. One more ridge descends from the summit of Vrtača. A short east-southeast ridge forms with the previous one a beautiful high valley, called Suho ruševje. The southern slopes of Vrtača are grassy, intermitted with rocky sections. North-east slopes, falling into Suho ruševje valley are rocky, but offer passages through two not so hard climbable ravines.

On the southern side, the summit slopes end on a small saddle, called Šija, 1693 m. South of it the summit of Srednji vrh rises. It is mostly covered with pine bushes and woods, only towards the south its slopes are also rocky.

South-east of Vrtača there is a nice alpine meadow, called Zelenica. Once a chair-lift reached it and it was a small ski resort. Now the chair-lift is not operating any more and the whole world between Vrtača and Begunjščica returned again into one of the most beautiful places for tour skiing.

Towards the south-west, the slopes of Vrtača lower on a high karstic plateau, stretching towards the summit of Stol/Hochstuhl. In nthat plateau there are bigger and smaller basins, like V Kožnah, Vatelca, etc.

Summit Views

The panorama from Vrtača summit is broad, but can still not be compared with the one of Stol/Hochstuhl. The views in distance are great, except towards the west, where Stol is obscuring them. Nice is also the rocky scenery of the northern side of Karavanke.

Vrtaca
haubi - towards the S
From the summit of...
The view towards Stol
Grossglockner
JFS - Grossglockner

Getting There

Vrtača is very popular in recent years. The reason is very free border regime after independence of Slovenia, with May 1st, 2004, when Slovenia entered European Union the border becoming virtually non-issue. The other reason is the road over Ljubelj/Loibl pass, where on the south portal of the tunnel, on 1058 m, the trailhead starts. This parking place is the first starting point for tours on Vrtača (46.431025,14.260574).

The second nice possibility is from the north. From Ljubelj/Loibl road near the church of Sopotnica/Sapotnitza a road deters westwards and brings you in Žabnica/Bodental, 1052 m. This is the trailhead for north wall ascents, ascents through Žleb (east of north wall) and on Vrtača saddle (west of the north wall) and further to the summit. The parking place at Bodenbauer has coordinates: 46.467723,14.215557.

The third trailhead is in Završnica valley, where the road brings you below the south slopes of Vrtača. From Žirovnica, SE of Jesenice, you can drive by a narrow mountain road into the valley till the altitude of 1070 m, where you park by Tinčkova koča: 46.422786,14.199356.

And finally Vrtača can also be accessed from the west, from the Stol/Hochstuhl region, where you reach into Baerental the parking place near Stouhuette, 960 m. In summer, and often also in times of tour skiing you can even drive further up the valley to the parking place on Johannesruhe, 1152 m: 46.454002,14.159433.

Maps:

You can see a detailed map on:

http://www.austrianmap.at/.

That's in German, but as of classical maps, you can refer to:

Karavanke, 1:20000. Planinska zveza Slovenije, or
Karavanke, Central part and Grintovci, 1:50000. Planinska zveza Slovenije.

Routes Overview

As said, Vrtača can offer something to everyone. Besides all sorts of mountaineering routes on the sumit, also the neighbouring areas are very nice for various outdoor activities. In winter Bodental becomes a nice area for cross country skiing, in summer the area around Završnica lake is a nice recreational place, etc.

The map on the left shows the main hiking and skiing routes on Vrtača, and below is the list of them.

Vrtaca
haubi - Vrtača in winter

Summer routes
Tour
start m
end m
alt. diff.
difficulty
marked
time
comment
Vrtaca/Wertatscha, 2.181m
1. Vrtača from Podljubelj
1058 m
2180 m
1130 m
hike T3
yes
3 h 30 min
From Podljubelj to Zelenica hut, then by the upper path on the SW ridge and on top.
Stol and Srednja pec from Zagon valley
2. Vrtača from Završnica
1070 m
2180 m
1100 m
hike T3
partly
3 h 15 min
From Tinčkova koča through Zagon on Šija saddle and on top.
3 .Vrtača from Završnica
1070 m
2180 m
1100 m
hike T3
yes
3 h 15 min
From Tinčkova koča to Koča pri izviru Završnice and on top.
On the SE ridge of Vrtaca....
4. Vrtača SE ridge
1058 m
2180 m
1130 m
UIAA I
no
3 h 00 min
From Podljubelj to Zelenica hut, then in Suho ruševje valley and by the SE ridge on top.
Wertatscha 2.181m
5. Vrtača from Bodental
1052 m
2180 m
1150 m
hike T3
no
4 h 10 min
From Bodenbauer on the saddle 1855 m, then eastwards on the SW ridge and on top.
6. Vrtača from Johannesruhe
1152 m
2180 m
1050 m
hike T3
partly
4 h 00 min
From Johannesruhe (or Stouhuette) on Belščica saddle, then on the SW ridge and on top.
Approaching to the hardest...
7. Vrtača by the NE ravine
1058 m
2180 m
1130 m
UIAA II/I
no
3 h 15 min
From Podljubelj to Zelenica hut, then in Suho ruševje valley and by the NE ravine on top.
8. Srednji vrh
1070 m
1796 m
730 m
hike T2
no
2 h 00 min
From Tinčkova koča on Šija saddle and on top.

Ski tours and alpinistic ski descents
Tour
start m
end m
alt. diff.
difficulty
timecomment
Skiing down from the W ridge of Vrtaca
1. Vrtača south slopes
1058 m
2180 m
1130 m
35 deg. PD+
4 h 00 min
As summer route #1 above. Skiing from the W summit ridge.
Steep skiing through Vrtaca S ravine
2. Vrtača south ravine
1058 m
2180 m
1130 m
40 deg. AD
4 h 00 min
Ascent as summer route #1 above. Skiing from the very top.
3. Vrtača NE ravine
1058 m
2180 m
1130 m
45 deg. AD+
3 h 30 min
Ascent as summer route #7 above. Skiing from the very top.
4. Vrtača from Bodental
1052 m
2180 m
1140 m
45 deg. AD+
4 h 00 min
From Bodenbauer on Žleb notch and by the NE ravine on top.
5. Saddle 1855 m
1052 m
1855 m
800 m
30 deg. PD-
2 h 30 min
From Bodenbauer on the saddle 1855 m.

Classic climbs - summer
Tour
heightdifficulty
time
first ascent
1. W ridge
 UIAA II
  
2. NE ridge (from the notch below Zelenjak)
240 m
UIAA II


3. Palec/Selenitza N ridge
UIAA IV-

R. Szalay & A. Ferch, 1924.
4. Zelenjak N ridge
UIAA IV-V
7-8 h
V. Pretterebner & J. Ressmann, 1936.
5. Direct route (Gipfelfallinie)
UIAA IV-V
5-6 h
V. Pretterebner & W. Pretterebner, 1935.
6. NW buttress (Nordwestpfeiler)
600 m
UIAA V
8 h
V. Pretterebner & W. Pretterebner, 1934.
7. Nova smer (New route, Neuer Weg)
UIAA III+
4 h
W. Wruhs, E. Kahlhofer & R. Begusch, 1934.

Basic winter climbs

Red Tape

No limitations.

When To Climb

In summer best months are from start of July till end of October.

For tour skiing the best months are from December till April. First snow usually falls in November, in certain areas skiing is possible till start of May.

Camping

Yeah, it s only grass! But......
Huts in Stol region:
Valvasorjev dom, 1171 m.
Prešernova koča, 2172 m.
Klagenfurter Huette, 1663 m.

Huts on Zelenica meadows:
Planinski dom na Zelenici, 1536 m.
Koča pri izviru Završnice, 1425 m.

Mountain Conditions

For weather see here.

External Links

  • Austrian Map online
    Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German

Your Help Is Needed

Please contribute the following information if you have it:
> Your experiences from classical rock climbs in north walls.
> You experiences from any harder alpinistic ski tour.

Images