OverviewThis is a Class 3 snow climb on Mt. Democrat’s seldom climbed north face. This route holds its snow into August, making it a good late season snow climb.
Getting ThereThis route starts from the Montgomery Reservoir Trailhead.
This trailhead is located on the reservoir's west side at 10,920 feet. From the Hoosier Pass Summit, go south for 1.1 miles. You will see a sign for Park County Road 4. Turn right onto this dirt road. Follow the dirt road west until you see the reservoir. Upon reaching the reservoir, you will come upon a fork in the road, take the right branch. This section of road travels around the lake and you should follow it until the road turns 4WD. There will be a small parking lot on your left, park here.
Continue south up the valley. Make your way to the north couloir; it is the westernmost couloir on Democrat’s north face. The north couloir is directly below the lower section of the north ridge route. Enter the couloir at approximately 13,000 feet and climb another 700 feet at an angle of 40-45 degrees. This part is exhilarating but not as daunting as it looked from the 4WD road. I recommend crampons and an axe, as this couloir can retain its snow into August. The upper portion is cast in a shadow most of the day and can remain rock hard (see picture on right).
Once at the top of the couloir continue up the north ridge. Connect with the class 3 hikers trail which will lead you to the summit.
Essential GearCrampons & axe when snow is present. The upper portion is cast in a shadow much of the day and can remain rock hard.
Helmet when rock fall is present.