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North Guard Climber's Log

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DebDifficult Conditions  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2017


Jim and I climbed one of the south face chutes beginning with 40-45 deg frozen snow sporting crevasses and huge inversions. From our chute choice we had to traverse 70 deg snow slope using sharp rocks as hand axes to access the west ridge. Fine scramble to summit ding-dong. A decent amount of Class 4-5 was done to avoid falling into the abyss of many inversions as the base of the chutes. Pretty intense day!
Posted Jul 4, 2017 4:53 am

wmollandSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014


A fun scramble up with the last 300 or so feet definitely requiring you to pay attention. Cruised over to Brewer after this for a superb two peak day!
Posted Jul 7, 2014 1:48 pm

mrchad9South Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2013


Enjoyable route up early in the morning before hitting more to the south at the beginning of a 4-day weekend out. Once I hit the ridge I pretty much stuck to it, apparently making my lift slightly more difficult than necessary.

I had brought my climbing shoes for the summit block but didn't bother... without thinking I just ran on up it. Not as bad as it looks.
Posted Jul 9, 2013 5:26 pm

mengboSouth face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2013


Hiked with Kathy and Keith. Camped at Sphnix Lake for the first night.
Posted Jun 10, 2013 5:49 pm

seanoFrom Brewer  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2012


A direct assault involved a bit of class 5. Trip report.
Posted Sep 16, 2012 12:10 pm

bc44caesarSouth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 12, 2010


Part of an 8 day trek around the Kings Kern Divide. Climbed from Lake Reflection. The access gully to the west side of the mountain was full of snow so I used my crampons, but one could scramble between the snow and the rock wall on the north side, which I did on the descent. I opted for a 3rd/4th class rib of rock next to the main gully, which was solid and a lot more fun. The summit pinnacle is 3rd class and easy. Around 8hrs round trip.
Posted Sep 17, 2010 12:19 am

DariaNorth Guard, South Guard, Brewer dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2010


Did as a single dayhike of North Guard, Brewer, South Guard as one big loop. North Guard had a fun ridge scramble to reach summit register-
Posted Sep 6, 2010 1:59 pm

haishanObligatory summit shot  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 1999


Be sure to bring a friend to photo you on the summit :)
Posted Sep 28, 2009 2:32 am

Bob BurdNorth/South Guard  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

Bob Burd

Didn't make it to Brewer, but I did manage both North and South Guard in a not-too-long dayhike, with Rick Kent and Tom Becht. Trip Report
Posted Aug 24, 2009 1:16 pm

bechttNot what was planned  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009


Originally, Bob Burd, Rick Kent and I were planning to do all three peaks. Poor acclimation, sleep deprivation, or ? killed Rick and my ambitions for a multi-peak day. After making it to NG, we told Bob to keep going on his own while we crawled back to the trailhead.
Posted Aug 2, 2009 3:32 pm

kevin trieuSC  Sucess!

kevin trieu

did it with a couple of Sierra Club peeps from up north
Posted Aug 26, 2008 5:18 pm

tb00957south face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006
lots of snow. tiresome to get to camp.
Posted Jun 21, 2006 10:59 pm

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: South Face Date Climbed: Aug 27, 1999  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Not a dayhike epic like Matthew (truly, The Man), but I did manage to climb South Guard, Brewer, and North Guard on the same day starting from near Thunder Mtn, ending by Sphinx Col. By far North Guard was the most enjoyable of the three. I was afraid to walk the plank on the summit block however. Trip Report
Posted Aug 24, 2004 1:58 am

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: West Ridge/South Face Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2004  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

North Guard/Brewer dayhike out of Cedar Grove. The scrambling on North Guard is as fun as advertised. I headed up to the west ridge way too early (I never spotted Secor's chutes on my way from Sphinx Col)--I'm glad I did. Excellent climb.
Posted Aug 24, 2004 12:42 am

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