Start at Mountet hut (2868 m) and follow the tracks on the moraine of the Glacier du Mountet to a place just below the saddle at 3188 m and step on the glacier there. Stay near the ridge as long as possible, cross finally the bergschrund and reach the shoulder (L'Epaule 4017 m) which is part of the north ridge.
Easy walk on the north ridge, leave the first gendarme on your right. The ridge gets more and more narrow end culminates at the razor. You can climb over it or go around on your right.
The next gendarme is the sphinx, traverse it on the Mountet side. The ridge gets narrow again and offers another razor (Bourrique). Now a wide tower (Bosse) invites you, but can be very difficult after a snow fall. Afterwards easy to the summit.
5 hours from the Mountet hut, difficulty III+ if completely dry to very difficult in snow and ice.
Book: Walliser Alpen, Volume II (Clubführer SAC in german or french).
Link for books and maps:
Literature and Maps
rope, axe, crampons
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