OverviewThis somewhat contrived route climbs the steep ice face climbers right of the standard East Ridge route and offers a nice alternative for climbers with a bit of ice climbing experience. The route is in best condition in early fall (late September - mid October) before the first snow storms arrive. The climber should expect several pitches of snow and ice to 60 degrees.
Drive HWY 20 to the east end of the town of Marblemount. Turn onto Cascade River Road and drive to the Eldorado Creek Trailhead at MP 19. The road is typically driveable through the end of December although land slides and blowdowns can block the road earlier. Check the NPS road closure Web page for road conditions: North Cascades National Park Road Conditions Web page
The Eldorado Creek trailhead is not entirely obvious. Walk the road downstream. In approximately 100 yards look for path leading to a large tree spanning the river. The tree is large and is pretty easy for a Cascades river crossing. Once on the opposite bank follow flagging until able to pick up the trail.
Hike up the moraine aiming for the toe of the Eldorado Glacier. Cross the glacier heading towards the East Ridge of Eldorado.
Where to camp
The base of the east ridge offers good bivi sites.
Descend the East Ridge.
5-6 ice screws
External LinksNice trip report here: