Approach
Hike from the Humber Park parking lot up along the Ernie Maxwell Trail. Turn left onto a use trail after about 5 minutes. This goes up to lunch rock. At lunch rock turn right and go along the rock past the lowest point of the rock to a huge diahedral separating the west face from the south face. This is the Open Book. It starts on a sloping slab under a small overhang.
Route Description
This is a classic route. Climb the overhang and head up the dihedral, past a piton, to an alcove (belay 1). The 5.9 crux is at the top of the the first pitch. Keep going up the diahedral in a sustained 5.8 pitch to another alcove, belay 2. Follow the dihedral up for a third pitch of easier climbing (5.7) to a ledge, belay 3. Climb another 30 feet or so to the top of the dihedral, left around an overhang onto 4th class slabs above, belay 4.
Essential Gear
A set of cams to 4 inches and some large stoppers.
Miscellaneous Info
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