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Ortler / Ortles
Mountain/Rock

Ortler / Ortles

 
Ortler / Ortles

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Alto Adige - Südtirol, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.50929°N / 10.54374°E

Object Title: Ortler / Ortles

Elevation: 12812 ft / 3905 m

 

Page By: Chandra

Created/Edited: Dec 12, 2001 / Sep 16, 2008

Object ID: 150723

Hits: 38741 

Page Score: 94.91%  - 50 Votes 

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Overview

The Ortler / Ortles is the highest summit of Alto Adige-Südtirol, and not considering the Bernina-group it is also the highest mountain of the eastern Alps. This gigantic and mighty peak composes together with its neighbours Monte Zebrù and Gran Zebrù (Königsspitze) the impressive “Dreigestirn” of Solda (Sulden).

Once, the King of the eastern Alps was the highest elevation of the Austrian-Hungarian Monarchy. And so it came that by command of Erzherzog Johann the first ascent to its top already occurred in 1804. On September, 27th Joseph Pichler and companions reached the summit.

The legendary and dangerous north-wall was first climbed by Hans Ertl and Franz Schmid in 1931.
 
Ortler s north side in sunrise
VIEW FROM RIFUGIO PAYER
 
Cevedale - Gran Zebru - Monte Zebru
SUMMIT VIEW TOWARDS SOUTH

Getting There

HOW TO REACH SOLDA (Sulden):

The town of Sulden (Italian Solda) is situated at the foot of the mountain.
By car:
Access from north: Inn valley, Landeck, Reschenpaß, Prad am Stilfersjoch, Gomagoi, Sulden
Access from east: Vischgau

By train

The train stations
Landeck (Austria) approx. 90 km distance
Meran (Italia) approx. 60 km distance
From there bus connection to Sulden

More on getting there: Sulden-Info.com
Tourism association


HOW TO REACH THE SUMMIT:

It is very often ascended. The normal route is a moderate rock climb and glacier trip. In the rocky section, there is a steep part secured by a chain and one shorter part up to grade II-III (pitons, most people use a rope). Then, there is one steep snow slope (Bärenloch) which can be tricky in icy conditions late in the season (September). The rest is a relatively easy glacier walk up to the summit.

 
In the final parts of...
HINTERGRAT
 
impressive views from the...
HINTERGRAT

Red Tape

No permits or summit fees.

When To Climb

July to September. Some parts of the glacier (Bärenloch) get very icy and more difficult in the late season.
autumn larch trees at Ortler
AUTUMN

Camping

In Solda (Sulden), Bormio and other towns in the vicinity you can find every kind of accomodation you search for.

Just for example:

Camping Sägemühle
Prato allo Stelvio
Tel.: +39 0473 61 60 78

Grand Hotel Bagni Nuovi
Bormio
Tel.: +39 0342 91 01 31

Hotel Post
Solda (Sulden)
Tel.: +39 0473 61 30 24


HUTS & BIVOUACS
 
Summit Cross of Ortler
SUMMIT

Rifugio Julius Payer
CAI Milano
Tel.: +39 0473 61 30 10

Rifugio Tabaretta
Private
Tel.: +39 347 26 14 872

Rifugio Alto del Costòn (Hintergrathütte)
Società Guide Alpine Solda
Tel.: +39 0473 61 31 88

Rifugio Città di Milano (Schaubachhütte)
CAI Milano
Tel.: +39 0473 61 30 24
 
Ortles
BIVACCO CITTÀ DI CANTÙ
 
Rifugio Julius Payer and Ortler itself in the background
RIFUGIO JULIUS PAYER

External Links

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-3 of 3    
desainmeUntitled Comment

desainme

Voted 10/10

Latitude46.503 N Longitude10.539 E
Posted Nov 18, 2003 6:57 am
Sebastian HammUntitled Comment

Sebastian Hamm

Hasn't voted

Hi, it would be useful to add the Hintergrat-Hut.





HINTERGRAT-HUT / Rifugio Alto del Coston


(2661m)


57 beds


Owner: Società Guide Alpine Solda


TEL: 0473 613188 (HUT) o. privat: 0473 613061





Adress:


Fam. Gutgsell


Haus Peder,


39029 Sulden





From the Hut are following ascents possible:


Ortler-Hintergrat


Ortler-Hochjochgrat


Königsspitze-Suldengrat


Königsspitze-Nordwand


Schrötterhorn


Suldenspitze


Zebru-Nordwand
Posted Feb 7, 2006 10:49 am
patascentMonte Pasquale

patascent

Hasn't voted

(3558 m)
Posted Mar 30, 2010 3:05 pm

Viewing: 1-3 of 3    

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