OverviewThe Ortler / Ortles is the highest summit of Alto Adige-Südtirol, and not considering the Bernina-group it is also the highest mountain of the eastern Alps. This gigantic and mighty peak composes together with its neighbours Monte Zebrù and Gran Zebrù (Königsspitze) the impressive “Dreigestirn” of Solda (Sulden).
Once, the King of the eastern Alps was the highest elevation of the Austrian-Hungarian Monarchy. And so it came that by command of Erzherzog Johann the first ascent to its top already occurred in 1804. On September, 27th Joseph Pichler and companions reached the summit.
The legendary and dangerous north-wall was first climbed by Hans Ertl and Franz Schmid in 1931.
Getting ThereHOW TO REACH SOLDA (Sulden):
The town of Sulden (Italian Solda) is situated at the foot of the mountain.
Access from north: Inn valley, Landeck, Reschenpaß, Prad am Stilfersjoch, Gomagoi, Sulden
Access from east: Vischgau
The train stations
Landeck (Austria) approx. 90 km distance
Meran (Italia) approx. 60 km distance
From there bus connection to Sulden
More on getting there: Sulden-Info.com
HOW TO REACH THE SUMMIT:
It is very often ascended. The normal route is a moderate rock climb and glacier trip. In the rocky section, there is a steep part secured by a chain and one shorter part up to grade II-III (pitons, most people use a rope). Then, there is one steep snow slope (Bärenloch) which can be tricky in icy conditions late in the season (September). The rest is a relatively easy glacier walk up to the summit.
Red TapeNo permits or summit fees.
When To ClimbJuly to September. Some parts of the glacier (Bärenloch) get very icy and more difficult in the late season.
CampingIn Solda (Sulden), Bormio and other towns in the vicinity you can find every kind of accomodation you search for.
Just for example:
Prato allo Stelvio
Tel.: +39 0473 61 60 78
Grand Hotel Bagni Nuovi
Tel.: +39 0342 91 01 31
Tel.: +39 0473 61 30 24
HUTS & BIVOUACS
Rifugio Julius Payer
Tel.: +39 0473 61 30 10
Tel.: +39 347 26 14 872
Rifugio Alto del Costòn (Hintergrathütte)
Società Guide Alpine Solda
Tel.: +39 0473 61 31 88
Rifugio Città di Milano (Schaubachhütte)
Tel.: +39 0473 61 30 24
Route description in German
Trip report (Hintergrat) in German with pictures
- picture gallery of an ascent of the Hintergrat (sorry, in german)
- Ortles Cededale Alpin Guides
- ALPINSCHULE ORTLER
OFFICIAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES ORTLER
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