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Over and Out
Route

Over and Out

 
Over and Out

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Over and Out

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Difficulty: Exposed, Runout Arete Climbing

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Blair

Created/Edited: Nov 4, 2009 / Nov 4, 2009

Object ID: 570409

Hits: 1367 

Page Score: 73.79%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach to Smooth Sole Wall Left

Follow the climber's trail from Fern Valley Road parking area up to Suicide Rock. The trail will spit you out at the Weeping Wall. It is possible to take a shortcut trail to the left (south) not too far after the penny tree, this side trail will take you to the base of the Buttress of Cracks. Nevertheless, there are many of these shortcut trails all over the way up to the rock. Stay Oriented.

Once you arrive to the base of Buttress of Cracks, Weeping Wall or anything right of the Sunshine Face, continue along the base of the rock up to Sunshine Face, and continue up the loose descent gully. Stay to the Left of the gully and look for a small tree and ledge system. Drop down (still Class 1) and go under a giant flake to a alcove. Climb up and over (Class 3) to the base of the Smooth Sole Wall's Right side. You should see a very large tree hanging precariously above the face. Continue up and along the trail. At the next flat belay area you will be at the base of Mickey Mantle, a great 5.8 mantlefest. Above and dominating the skyline will be the spectacular arete climb, Over and Out.
Over and Out
 


Route Description

Scramble over a log and some boulders to get to a easy crack system (5.6) that goes up and right. This will get you access to a 2-bolt belay spot.

P1- From the belay pedestal, move up and left to a bolt (5.9) and gain the arete. From here, the climb is simple (5.6 R), follow the magnificent, wild arete that gets progressively easier as you continue up. There is no gear past the bolt, making it R rated. It is possible to sling a couple of horns along the way, but these are very sketchy placements and
not recommended.
Over and Out
 


It is possible to Toprope this awesome line. From the base of the climb, scramble left up and way around the face to some Class 4 ledges. Follow up thru trees to gain the top of the left side of Smooth Sole Walls. You should be able to see the ground from up on this ledge. Gain the top and find 2 sets of 2-bolt belay anchors. Use the furthest one over and left for Over and Out. Two 60m ropes are needed along with creative rope management to make sure you can lower the TR'ed climber. All worth it!

Essential Gear

For Leading- 1 Longer ( 14 in.) Quickdraw
Some Dynema slings to possibly sling horns. (read=sketchy)
Anchor Setup

For Toprope- Anchor Setup
Two 60m Ropes
Creative Rope Management


Descent

Rap the route with 2 60m ropes, or downclimb to the right along easy Class 4 ledges to the base of the Smooth Sole Wall.

First Ascent

This very cool climb was first done in October of 1987, by Bob Gaines, Troy Mayr and Mike Van Volkom.

Images

Over and OutOver and OutOver and OutNear the Top of Over and Out