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5560 Hits
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73.06% Score
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3 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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33.77090°N / 116.6967°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.9 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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moderate |
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Number of Pitches:
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1 |
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Grade:
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I |
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Approach
Sword of Damocles can be found at the Buttress of Cracks - Left End. This is the lowest point of Suicide Rock, thus easiest to get to. Head left along the base of the rock where the entry climbers' trail ends. A multitude of wonderful routes, varying degrees of difficulty, will be found along this wall.
Route Description
This is a one pitch climb which starts simply enough and squeezes into a thin crack. Hand and foot jams do the trick. Halfway up crack, you will find fixed pin, good luck reaching it if you are under 5'5"! Route doesn't get any easier after the pin, continue hand jamming and smearing through another 5.9 crux until reaching East Buttress Ledge for a 130' foot rappel.Essential Gear
Pro up to 2".Runners for lower section to keep drag down.
Bolted anchor at top, but two ropes are needed for 130' rappel.