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Over Easy (Middle Spire)

Over Easy (Middle Spire)

Over Easy (Middle Spire)

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.78470°N / 120.2208°W

Object Title: Over Easy (Middle Spire)

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes


Page By: rhyang

Created/Edited: Nov 27, 2005 / Dec 1, 2008

Object ID: 167738

Hits: 2861 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Follow approach trail from parking area - 15 minutes or less - to the north side of Middle Spire.

Route Description

There are several possible starts : lieback up the triangular flake, chimney up between the face and the flake, or use the vertical 5.7 crack first.

Then head up the face to a bolt, up over a roof with HUGE holds, and finally up the jugs (very gym-like), traversing somewhat left near the top to a set of anchor bolts / chains. Rappel off to descend.

You can also continue up the obvious arete from the anchors to a bolted 5.10b route called The Prow, which is balancy, airy fun !

Essential Gear

SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.75-3.5" range, plus extra slings to tie off knobs / jugs.

Miscellaneous Info

Supertopo route beta page is here.


Atop the roof24-Nov-2005: Middle Spire,...Approaching the roof