Whitehorse Mountain, Snow Gulch Glacier (So-Bahli-Ahli Glacier)
overnight, January, 1982
(Note: exact
weekend unknown, but it was in Jan. of '82)
The third time was
going to be a charm. Mike Woodmansee had attempted winter ascents of
the glacier on the N side of Whitehorse twice in '81. I'd been on the
first try. I remember two-thirds of the way up the mountain, Don
Slack and I stood back and watched Mike and Howard Armstrong wallow
in powder up to their chests in front, to their calves in back. After
20 minutes' determined effort, they might have moved an inch. Or not.
I missed the second
attempt, but the outcome was similar. Now, in the first weeks of '82,
Mike wanted another shot. He figured our problem was a simple lack of
time. On the scale of the American West, Whitehorse is puny: only
6,852 feet. But on the North side your car won't get you to 800 feet
above the saltwater. If nine hours of daylight wasn't enough to climb
and descend 6,000 feet in brush and deep snow, maybe we could do half
the job. An extra day to get down wasn't going to help much if we
loaded ourselves down with camping gear. We could skip the stove if
we brought no-cook food and extra water, and why bring a tent when we
can we can enjoy a nice, cozy snowcave?
From down at the
Whitehorse Store you can imagine climbing the glacier, but you tend
to overlook all the forest and brush in the foreground. The snow is
supposed to cover the brush, but the trade-off is the notorious
avalanches. Around here avalanches are wet and heavy. Western
Washington winters are mellowed by the Pacific. When the mercury
drops below freezing, local TV stations start running Special Reports
about the Frigid Arctic Blast. This month though, it was real. We'd
had two weeks of cold, dry, wind out of the NE and highs in the
teens. The snowpack ought to be about as stable as it gets.
As usual, I was up too
late packing the night before. This time it was complicated by
something I ate. Puking is not a good omen. I met Mike, Mark
DesVoigne, and Paul Sharratt in Mount Vernon when the stars were
still out. In fact, we parked the car in the woods under the N face
before the sun could reach us, and in January the sun doesn't hit
that side of the mountain all day. We hiked the road while it lasted,
then headed up into the woods and brush. That theory about all the
brush being buried under the snow didn't quite work out, but we
wrestled our way up to the glacier, then bore generally left, with
the usual deviations to bypass crevasses and steps. Our crampons
stayed on our packs. When we weren't postholing, we were wallowing.
It was a long day. By
the time we reached the final pitch, our light was fading. That last
section was a steep, soft snow ramp plastered against the N side of
the summit by that aforementioned N wind. It was too soft to support
our boots, but if we stabbed our arms straight into the slope and
pressed down with the whole length of our arms, they held us. There
were two problems, though. One was that the wind at our backs picked
up every granule of snow available when we even thought about moving,
and blew it straight up between our legs and into our parkas, noses
and mountain glasses. The other was that Paul had no mittens. He was
a poor highschool kid, using wool socks for mitts. Holey ones, at
that. Persistent kid that he was, he reached the top with superficial
frostbite all over both hands. I was last up, in time to see the last
half of the sun disappear behind the Olympics. Down to the north was
this amazing single file of tracks in the snow that snaked up for
thousands of feet to our perch. I said I'd hate to be the poor
suckers who made all those tracks.
My right eyelashes had
frozen together. I sat with my mitten over that eye while we enjoyed
the view. It thawed, and I had two eyes again, but while backing down
the same slope, my left eye froze shut.
We hadn't found a bivy site yet.
The snow around us was either too flat or too thin for an easy cave.
Down to the west, about 300 feet below, was a notch in the ridge
where wind cut a little canyon into the snow. We could burrow into
its walls. We'd dug proper caves before, with the low entrance tunnel
leading to a raised platforn to trap warm air. It's pretty
straightforward in damp Western Washington snow. This wasn't. We
chopped away at a hard, thick ice crust to find... another hard,
thick ice crust. Layer after layer of hard ice forced us to chop with
all our strength. Paul & I were too exhausted to help. We were
shuffled off to sit on our packs while Mike & Mark excavated our
palace. Actually, the ice forced them to chop so hard that our
palatial design was shot all to hell. We ended up with one cramped,
sloping, gaping hole for three of us, shallow enough that our legs
were exposed to the sky.
Mark
dug his own bed beside our hole. It was just a shelf parallel to the
slope, with a roof that partly overhung it.
We laid out our pads.
Most of us had the newfangled bluefoam pads, but Paul had the
original, tan Ensolite foam. It was flexible enough to fold into
quarters to make a nice cushion inside his pack. He unpacked it and
pulled it straight. It broke into four rectangles. Did I mention that
the temperature was well below zero F., and we had built our home in
a wind funnel? Paul had just the treat to keep us all warm: a
brand-new plastic rain poncho to spread over the three of us. He
pulled it out of its package and it broke into 8-inch squares, some
of which blew away over Whitehorse's S face. I undressed, which
consisted of taking off my boots and putting on Polarguard booties as
fast as I could, and slid down into my 2 ¾-pound duckdown REI
bag. Something wasn't right. In fact, it was pretty obvious my
crampons were under the center of my back. I laid on them for 20
minutes trying to convince myself I could sleep like that. They poked
a hole in my sleeping bag that I had to fix back home. I was kinda
tired. I gave up and fixed my bed. Rather than let my boots fill with
spindrift, I knocked some of the snow off them, crammed them into my
sleeping bag stuff sack, then crammed the package down into my
sleeping bag under my feet. I'd eaten almost nothing all day - my
stomach was still queasy. But I nibbled a bit and kept a plastic
container of peanut butter fudge inside my bag for a quick sugar &
fat hit in the morning.
We actually slept some, but it was
a long night. By morning it was even colder, at least -10F., and the
wind was doing about 40 knots, but at least I had my appetite back. I
dug down in my sleeping bag and came up with an empty container. I
found the fudge, too, frozen so hard it hadn't even picked up any
lint from my wool clothes. I mouthed it until I could gnaw off a
little. I pulled my boots out of my sleeping bag and found they were
still frozen solid. The crystals on them hadn't even rounded off. I
had time for a few pictures
while the Paul dressed & packed. He had blisters all over his
hands from freezing them the evening before. Made it hard to lace his
boots.
Mark
had boot problems, too. His were a bit too large, and he'd climbed
all Saturday with wedges of foam crammed into the tops to fill space.
That would probably be a more popular technique if it worked. He had
some frostbite on both feet.
We headed down, this
time bearing left and off the west side of the glacier to traverse
talus & brush slopes. We were stopped by an avalanche track where
the slab had left only a thin layer, hard & tough as plywood. I
tried cutting steps across it, but it took 6 hard blows with the pick
and three with the adze to cut each toehold. This in snow only 2
inches thick, with an airspace under it. The others called me back
and we put on crampons. Mike had to buckle Paul's. The crampons made
a big difference; the snow stayed hard well down into the forest. I
remember that because Paul tripped over a vine maple, and when he
fell, he swung his leg and cramponed Mike in the shin. Took four
stitches back in Mount Vernon.
We reached the car,
the car worked, and we drove out into the sun at the highway. We'd
been under blue skies all weekend, but hadn't stood in the sun since
Friday, unless you count that orange sliver we watched set from the
summit. It felt good. It felt really good to be off that mountain. My
definition of adventure is something you undertake for fun that has a
significant risk of serious consequences. Whitehorse in a coldsnap
fit that definition. It was not so much something to do as to have
done. I'm glad I don't have to go back.
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