I am looking for some advice for an overnight rock climbing trip over July 4th weekend. I am fine with heading to either side of the Sierra. Ideally something with a 4-8 mile approach and 2k or 3k of elevation gain. Pretty much we are looking to do a leisurely trip and get in a day or two of rock climbing from base camp. We are thinking 3-6 pitches or so 5. whatever to 5.8 is preferable since one climber is not that strong and don't want to wear him out or get him stalled on a crux.

Throw your ideas out there I am open to pretty much anything from the southern sierra to yosemite. We are looking to drive up Friday afternoon or Saturday morning and hike-in and spend 2-3 nights in the backcountry and 1-2 days climbing. I guess we also need to be ale to get permits so throw that into the mix.

Thanks for helping me plan my vacation and btw I got new nuts, the wife wasn't happy. Not because I lost my nuts, but since we had to pay to replace them

While it is a little bit more distance in than you are hoping for, hiking back to the Palisades would provide you with a great playground. The Swiss Arete on Mt. Sill provides the moderate multi-pitch yer looking for. If they're into skiing (this time of year it should still be skiiable back there) one can combine skiing and climbing in one of the most scenic areas of the Sierra.

Another area to look into adventuring back to is Charlotte Dome. It is a bit of a hike back, but is one of the 50 Crowded routes, and from what I understand for good reason. Definitely on my list this year!

If interested in more climbing than hiking, two routes on Temple Crag in the Palisades (passed if proceeding on to the Palisade Glacier to climb in the Sill/North Pal zone) are more climbing pitch-wise than you're wanting, but you have a 5.8 and 5.7 right next to each other that you could tag on consecutive days...and in such an awesome setting! Venusian Blind and Moon Goddess Arete offer outstanding climbing, lots of pitches, and not terribly sustained for the grade either.

If you could squeeze in a Whitney Zone permit, East Buttress and East Face of Whitney would be one set of fun moderates to get in, and then heading over to Russell for the Fish Hook Arete.

If willing to break your days into a couple of car-to-car adventures, the moderates of the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak coupled with the East Arete of Mount Humphreys could also give you some real nice climbing, and the usual pretty scenery.

I'm sure others can think of some fun stuff more so than myself, but those are all considered pretty fun routes!

Additional Reading:

High Sierra Climbing, McNamera
The Good, The Great, and The Awesome, Croft
The High Sierra - Peaks ~ Passes ~ Trails, Secor

WML gives a good standard rundown of the East side above.

If you are a guidebook only climber. You'll need to get the guide.

If you dare to climb original stuff, there is a very interesting looking rock about 2.5-3 miles in on the Onion Valley - Kearsarge Pass trail. It's just above a small tarn next to the trail before you get to heart lake. It's a real clean and obvious looking bit of granite about 200 ft tall. It looks like a perfect objective based on what you describe. Moderate to hard climbs, easy get down from the top. Plenty of crack systems and very clean looking granite.

Rock Creek area = 5 mile hike with little elevation gain. Bear Creek Spire, Mt Dade, Ruby Walls, Petite Grifon.....and many more. My favorite place!

The Obelisk.

I'll second the Obelisk, but only because I want to do it too.


Rock Creek I hear is pretty sweet tho.

If you are from the bay area. Your best time value is the Sawtooth Ridge out of Bridgeport over Sonora Pass. Lots of moderate 3-6 pitch stuff and a quick approch. Both the north face of the Matterhorn and the South Tooth are great climbs with summits. The camp site may still be limited from snow but so is everything over 9000. Permits are available at the ranger station in Bridgeport. There is a fee at the trailhead though.

Petit Griffon (Above the Rock Creek Lakes Basin) in between Dade & Mills via the 5.8 2(70m)-3(60m) P Harvey Route.

Guarantee ya that ya'll will have it to yourselves and will be one of the most positive memorable BC Sierra lines you ever do!!!

Chief,

Just noticed on your second photo - doesn't the Harvey route start on the backside of the notch?

g4b

Yup...Starts just at the notch and then follows up the crack system which pretty much follows the NW-SW (west side) and the NW arete (skyline) of the Petit.

I am limited on what I can use to notate this on the pics.

Good catch....you done it?????

Domelands..Bart Dome.

Rob wrote:Domelands..Bart Dome.

On 4th of July???

Temps in the high 90's .... come on Rob.

The Chief wrote:Yup...Starts just at the notch and then follows up the crack system which pretty much follows the NW-SW (west side) and the NW arete (skyline) of the Petit.

I am limited on what I can use to notate this on the pics.

Good catch....you done it?????

Hey Chief, no, I haven't done that one, but it sounds tempting, especially with the reasonable approach. I was just comparing it to the route page on SP that made it sound like it started on backside.

I'm thinking maybe later this year I could it, but so far it's been a real weak year for climbing for me, so I'm not holding my breath

Hmm, the Harvey route sounds like fun, and there is even a route page on SP for it -

http://www.summitpost.org/route/157328/ ... ummit.html

Secor's description is the usual couple sentences. Any other thoughts on the route ? I know it's weak to ask for so much beta, but then so am I

I was also thinking Charlotte Dome as I was reading your post till you mentioned 6 pitches. Charlotte Dome is 12 and 5.8. Maybe a little more involved than you're looking for.

The Tuolumne suggestions are good but may not yield the true wilderness experience you're looking for (I'll probably get flamed for that comment).

Matterhorn Peak's North Arete is also an option.
Humphreys East Ridge.
Lone Pine Peak's North Ridge or North East Ridge.
If you're willing to do the hike, Swiss Arete on Sill is 5.8, not too long and not too much 5.8.