Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Best First California Climb

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Best First California Climb

Postby dman » Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:32 pm

I have limited mountaineering experience but I do have rock climbing experience. I was looking for a good first mountaineering trip in the Sierra Nevada. I will be moving from Ohio to California in October and was interested in a hike late in the month of October or early November. Any information on the area would be great, including general weather around that time and what a good first trip could be. And if anyone was interested in joining me on the trip that would be great to.
User Avatar
dman

 
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 1:42 am
Location: United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:05 pm

-

there could be snow late Oct or Nov.

if not, the Bear Creek Spire area cannot be beat. really beautiful and not a long hike, plenty of scenic lakes. do the North Arete on BCS if you are a solid trad 5.8 climber with some route finding skills. do the NE Ridge for more of a long scenic scramble (5.4 sections?)


check the weather and snow conditions before you head up


-
User Avatar
jesu, joy of man's desiring

 
Posts: 704
Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:54 pm
Thanked: 447 times in 332 posts

The following user would like to thank jesu, joy of man's desiring for this post
dman

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby dman » Tue Jul 17, 2012 2:36 am

Steve1215 thanks for the help. What kind of pro did you use for both the routes you are talking about? Any kind of prep before I go?
User Avatar
dman

 
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 1:42 am
Location: United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Kahuna » Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:07 am

If the weather holds and no snow, here are two 14ers that easily accessible yet challenging Class 2ish:

Mount Tyndall NW Ridge

White Mountain
Kahuna

 
Posts: 396
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:43 am
Thanked: 153 times in 105 posts

The following user would like to thank Kahuna for this post
butitsadryheat

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby POLUKO » Tue Jul 17, 2012 5:37 am

It depends on how far you want to hike and how high you want to go. It will be cold, especially at night, and it could also be sunny and comfortable during the day. Snow is a very real possibility. Temps change very fast out here so plan for both.

If you have never been to altitude maybe try something modest, such as Telescope Peak or a short one like Baden-Powell, and you will have an idea of what it feels like. They are at around 11k where O2 is noticeably scarce. They are also not in the Sierra but kinda close. Acclimating to altitude is key to enjoying the high peaks.

If you are driving from Ohio you could spend a night in Flagstaff and hike Mt Humphreys, which is 12,600. Highest peak in AZ and a good starting point as well.

Not only Whitney, but there are many 13ers around there and your options could be Mt Mallory or Lone Pine Peak. Mt Langley is easier than most other big peaks as well and is a 14er. Just expect long hikes mostly uphill and out of breath.

By most standards, these peaks are not really mountaineering though, depending on who you talk to, the route, and the conditions.
User Avatar
POLUKO

 
Posts: 54
Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:18 am
Location: Paso Robles, California, United States
Thanked: 5 times in 5 posts

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Marmaduke » Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:13 am

What about The Minarets? I haven't been there but based on what I've read, seems like a nice option. Many climbing routes in a small area ranging from class 3/4 to 5.2 to 5.6 and looks like a beautiful area.
http://www.summitpost.org/minarets/247994
User Avatar
Marmaduke

 
Posts: 1331
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 1:08 am
Location: Sonoma, California, United States
Thanked: 583 times in 449 posts

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:14 am

dman wrote:Steve1215 thanks for the help. What kind of pro did you use for both the routes you are talking about? Any kind of prep before I go?



here is Steve Larson's page with gear info for North Arete, Bear Creek Spire

http://www.summitpost.org/north-arete/155836

I recall that small cams (1") were very useful on the first technical pitch--5.7

---------------------------

Here is Craig Peer's page with gear info for NE Ridge of BCS

http://www.summitpost.org/northeast-ridge/157054

I have not done this popular route; I hear most people do it ropeless


VVVV

Prep? in late Oct I'd get on these routes at sunrise!


if heavy snow comes early I'm sure you would have a lot more fun waiting till Sept 2013 to do these routes


-
User Avatar
jesu, joy of man's desiring

 
Posts: 704
Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:54 pm
Thanked: 447 times in 332 posts

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby TheGeneral » Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:23 pm

Late October or early November? The Needles, or Domelands. Despite what most folks think, there is winter in California.
“The carping and bickering of political factions in the nation's capital reminds me of two pelicans quarreling over a dead fish.” -- William Tecumseh Sherman
User Avatar
TheGeneral

 
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2011 5:50 am
Location: Hell's Kitchen, New York, United States
Thanked: 467 times in 322 posts

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby mtndonkey » Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:51 pm

It will definitely depend on when the first big storm hits, but usually sometime by mid to late Oct there is a chance of getting a foot to several feet of snow. Also, what level of rock climbing experience do you have? A multi-pitch alpine route in the sierra can be a pretty brutal first trip if you are mostly experienced with crag climbing such as the Red River Gorge. A bit more info on your background would be helpful. Mt Goode out of South Lake is a nice 2/3 class dayhike, Thork Pk is another good entry level hike or has a few easier rock routes. If you are completely new to the Sierra and bigger mountains, you might just want to bag a few peaks before jumping on a rock climbing route to get a feel for how long things take and how the grade compares. A lot of people new to the Sierra are shocked by what is considered class 3 sometimes.
User Avatar
mtndonkey

 
Posts: 290
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 5:49 pm
Location: Altadena, California, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 7 posts

The following user would like to thank mtndonkey for this post
dman

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Palisades79 » Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:52 pm

Where in California are you moving too ?
Palisades79

 
Posts: 187
Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 5:45 pm
Location: sacramento, California, United States
Thanked: 23 times in 20 posts

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby dman » Tue Jul 17, 2012 6:14 pm

Mtndonkey: Like you thought my climbing experience is primarily crag climbing at the Red. However, I have done treks like a three day winter trek in the grand canyon.

Palisides79: I will be moving to Santa Maria California.

3Deserts: I appreciate the feedback!

If snow does hit, would it still be possible to do a climb with snow shoes and crampons?
User Avatar
dman

 
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2012 1:42 am
Location: United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Best First California Climb

Postby Kahuna » Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:23 pm

nellis wrote:Actually White Moutain is class 1 and not challenging.


Obviously you have not done WM in early November.

The prevailing SW 60-80mph sustained winds w/avg day time temp of 20-30deg F at that time of the year, most certainly make it a pretty challenging venture. Of course I know absolutely nothing of WM. I just live beneath it and see it every morning first thing outta my kitchen window.

I would certainly not recommend any individual that has absolutely zero Sierra "Alpine" experience, on any Class 4+ climb, solo, for their first CA climb. Please refer to the current SAR thread for my reason/s.


Per the OP:

.... a hike late in the month of October or early November
Kahuna

 
Posts: 396
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 4:43 am
Thanked: 153 times in 105 posts

Next

Return to California

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

cron

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.