Denali training routine?

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traveljunkie78

 
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Denali training routine?

by traveljunkie78 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 3:24 am

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone can help me out with a training routine for Denali. I currently live in Warsaw, Poland so i don't have a lot of mountains to train.
What would be best for me?

Thanks

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radson

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by radson » Mon Jan 03, 2011 3:51 am

Just some ideas, as I have never been to Alaska but do kind of understand a flatlanders handicap in relation to mountaineering.

Currently, there is an Aussie in Phuket, Thailand (not exactly the epicenter of mountaineering) who is training for the seven summits. He has a blog of his exercise regime at http://olocadventures.com.au/v1/

I actually wish I had trained with them prior to some of my trips.

Also, What may be of help the following 2 books, both of which can be purchased and read using the kindle app on a kindle/ipad/iphone/laptop etc.
http://www.amazon.com/Mountaineering-Training-and-Preparation-ebook/dp/B004A16LN0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&m=A24IB90LPZJ0BS&s=digital-text&qid=1294026580&sr=1-9

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Training-Performance-Outdoor-ebook/dp/B001OLRN1I/ref=pd_sim_kinc_1?ie=UTF8&m=A24IB90LPZJ0BS

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traveljunkie78

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by traveljunkie78 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 4:50 am

Radson,
Maybe you can tell me your workout routine for Everest??

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bird

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by bird » Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:18 pm

Check out www.mtnathlete.com. They have a "big mountain" plan you can buy. (I haven't seen the exact plan, but am pretty familiar with their workouts to believe it's head and shoulders above the other training plans out there).
You can also check out www.crossfit.com, and crossfitendurance.com and build your own plan from the three sources.
In a very shortened summary, the thinking is to get away from tons of "cardio" with a bit of strength that most plans have, and think in terms of "work capacity". How hard can you work for how long? That's what mtnathlete tends to focus on.
In my experience, you can go from flatlands to mountains with this type of training and manage quite nicely.

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AndyJB444

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by AndyJB444 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 2:40 pm

From one flatlander to another, just exercise alot! Get the heart rate up, work on your "core" from time to time, and have the capacity to be on your feet moving for 8-10 hours straight.

How you accomplish that is really up to you, be it some system like CrossFit, or a marathon training plan + a couple backpacking trips, or a mountaineering-specific plan. Summit day on Denali will hurt no matter how much training you do, but you can prepare yourself to hurt a little less than others...

Good luck!

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radson

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by radson » Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:13 pm

traveljunkie78 wrote:Radson,
Maybe you can tell me your workout routine for Everest??


I didnt have the best routine as I worked on an oil rig for 3 of the 4 months prior to the expedition to get enough cash for the trip. Most of my training immediately prior to the trip was done on a 25 m x 25 m helideck....but we also had a weight room as well.

On the helideck I had/have 2 routines

(150 skips, 25 alternate walking lunges, 10 dips, 25 walking lunges) x 4
(150 skips, 15 pushups, 25 squats) x 4
(5 burpees, 25 sprint, 5 burpees, 25 m side step, 5 burpees, 25 m run backwards, 5 burpees) x 5

The other is an adaptation of the crossfit filthy fifties.

60 pushups
60 double skips
120 walking lunges
120 squats
120 mountain climbers
120 bicycle situps
60 knee to chest hanging raises
120 stair jumps
60 V-Ups
60 burpees.(with pushup)

In the weight room, I would do tabata intervals with weights.


...and lastly, I am always inspired by the lovely zuzana at http://www.bodyrock.tv

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwrUeFiBeVE&feature=channel[/youtube]

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96avs01

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by 96avs01 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:34 pm

Fletch wrote:Work the hip-flexors. Biggest thing people understimate is the sleds. Lots of guys drag tires around a parking lot to simulate the feeling of dragging a sled to 14. Good luck.


+1

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BigMitch

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by BigMitch » Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:19 pm

Here you go from the experts at Alpine Ascents International:

http://www.alpineascents.com/denali-train.asp

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traveljunkie78

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by traveljunkie78 » Tue Jan 04, 2011 12:50 am

Thanks guys!!! All of this is so helpful.

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ScottyP

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by ScottyP » Tue Jan 04, 2011 2:34 am

I did the tire drag twice a week. Once on flat 2.25 miles course (gravel road) with 60#pack and 40# tire. The second day I would do a 900' climb up a residental street (at night to avoid the laughs!) also with the pack on. The rest of the program is here..
http://www.alpineascents.com/denali-train.asp

Also using this for Aconcagua next momth. I felt very prepped for Denali and the sled was a non-event.

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Re: Denali training routine?

by AdamsKerr » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:39 pm

if possible, load up your pack with 40lbs, pick up a sled and pack a duffle with 40lbs and strap it on, drive up to a ski area and haul that thing up and down until you can hardly stand. rest. repeat.

combine that with a hell of a lot of pack training and regular cardio AND CLIMBING and you'll be ready to rock and roll.

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splattski

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by splattski » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:52 pm

My routine was to do a local hike with a 70lb (32Kg) pack. Once a week for the eight weeks before we left. 2000' (600M) gain. (is there a stadium or some other long set of stairs nearby?)
Seemed a bit extreme at the time, but it came in handy when one of my teammates got tuckered out going around Windy Corner and that's how much my pack weighed when I had to take some of his stuff.

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Re: Denali training routine?

by Sierra Ledge Rat » Sun Jan 09, 2011 3:09 pm

peladoboton wrote:
Fletch wrote:Work the hip-flexors. Biggest thing people understimate is the sleds. Lots of guys drag tires around a parking lot to simulate the feeling of dragging a sled to 14. Good luck.



YES.


Yes, yes.

If you have snowshoes, go break trail with a pack. Climb stairs with a pack. Long hikes with a heavy pack.

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drpw

 
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Re: Denali training routine?

by drpw » Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:16 pm

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cufQD5Y31ZA[/youtube]

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