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Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

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Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Ben Beckerich » Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:40 am

Howdy

Time to upgrade my down jacket, wanna help?

Looking for compressible but still very warm. Winter belay/emergency jacket. I think the MH Phantom is probably exactly what I'm looking for... 800, stuffed pretty full, seems to be compressible, super warm.... anyone have any experience? Also been thinking about the NF Nuptse.. My main problem is that I never pay full retail, preferring to trade hungry climbers food money for their used gear. So, I'm sort of limited to whats available on that market, and don't really know what to search craigsy and ebay for.

Thanks

-Ben
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Nitrox » Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:11 am

Do you plan on climbing in it?
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Ben Beckerich » Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:23 am

Nitrox wrote:Do you plan on climbing in it?


Maybe very rarely, but generally don't plan to

I sweat and overheat badly.. I actually did climb in my down on two occasions last season, but regretted it both times
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Burchey » Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:13 pm

Are you set on down? There are some pretty nice synth options that give you more flexibility with wet weather.
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Kai » Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:38 pm

Wait for the Brooks Range Mojave Jacket.

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Down-Jack ... ave-Jacket
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Autoxfil » Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:25 pm

I use my Rab Neutrino Endurance for those purposes, and it's just perfect. Warm enough for anything in the lower 48, very light and compressible, and it's got a highly water-resistant shell to boot.
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Nitrox » Sat Aug 11, 2012 5:00 am

Ben B. wrote:
Nitrox wrote:Do you plan on climbing in it?


Maybe very rarely, but generally don't plan to

I sweat and overheat badly.. I actually did climb in my down on two occasions last season, but regretted it both times


Buy anything you get a deal on that you like. If it doesn't have a place in your climbing then a lot of the key features are irrelevant. Hell, I'll sell you my almost new down jacket that I probably will never use again for 50% off retail.
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:50 pm

Nitrox wrote:Buy anything you get a deal on that you like. If it doesn't have a place in your climbing then a lot of the key features are irrelevant. Hell, I'll sell you my almost new down jacket that I probably will never use again for 50% off retail.


How do you figure?

What you got?
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Nitrox » Sun Aug 12, 2012 4:29 am

Ben B. wrote:
Nitrox wrote:Buy anything you get a deal on that you like. If it doesn't have a place in your climbing then a lot of the key features are irrelevant. Hell, I'll sell you my almost new down jacket that I probably will never use again for 50% off retail.


How do you figure?

What you got?


If the jacket is only going to get used occasionally or sit in your pack then things like collar height, type of wrist closure, pocket orientation, or some new down treatment will make no difference to you.

OR Maestro in Blue Large. $170 shipped. Worn once. Very warm but I climb in synthetic.
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Burchey » Sun Aug 12, 2012 5:29 am

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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Nitrox » Sun Aug 12, 2012 6:39 pm

Burchey wrote:uhhhhh

http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Research- ... B005CTH822

large blue avail for 163


Perfect, buy it new.
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Dane1 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:27 pm

RAB
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sun Aug 12, 2012 9:44 pm

Nitrox wrote:
If the jacket is only going to get used occasionally or sit in your pack then things like collar height, type of wrist closure, pocket orientation, or some new down treatment will make no difference to you


Indeed- none of those things matter... but I didn't say I was concerned with any of them, either.
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Dane1 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:08 pm

Let's see now, by your own admission you only buy used. "My main problem is that I never pay full retail, preferring to trade hungry climbers food money for their used gear."

So not only used but generally from climbers who don't have the funds or may be the experience to buy the best or the most useful in the first place by the sounds of it.

I just don't get the rational unless as you say, you never plan on using it.

Q: "Do you plan on climbing in it?

A: "Maybe very rarely, but generally don't plan to
I sweat and overheat badly.. I actually did climb in my down on two occasions last season, but regretted it both times"

My 2 cents is that no one in the NW needs a down jacket for climbing, although I own several myself. I can count on one hand the times I have actually used one in several decades of climbing here. All above 12K feet fwiw. A 60 to 100g synthetic is way more useful as a belay or a climbing jacket here in all 4 seasons. Those I have lost count of the times I have used them in the Cascades.

As I said I have several down jackets. For all around use, I really like the RAB Infinity.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/10 ... acket.html

"Indeed- none of those things matter... but I didn't say I was concerned with any of them, either."

Seems to me like your only real concern is the price you pay. That kind of economy never seems to end well in the long run.
Last edited by Dane1 on Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Multi-purpose down jacket suggestions?

Postby Ben Beckerich » Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:20 pm

If it comes with a condescending tone, you can keep your advice to yourself. Thanks!

Those who suggested the Rab Neutrino and OR Maestro- look like perfect candidates. Thanks, two more jackets to watch for.
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